TIPS FOR CAR MAINTENANCE

Basic Car Maintenance Tips

If you've read my site or blog for any length of time, you'll know I'm not the world's biggest fan of American cars. As an extension, I think NASCAR is the most pointless waste of motorsports in the history of Creation. (And I'm an atheist so that's saying something).

So it's amusing to read about their Car Of Tomorrow that was introduced in 2007. It had 'cutting-edge' innovations like crumple zones, a rerouted exhaust designed not to fry the driver, a front splitter, a larger rear wing and - well - that's it really. It still uses pushrod engines and with the exception of a couple of courses like Watkins Glen, they all still drive in left-handed circles.

Those design features would have been the Car Of Tomorrow in the late 70's. Most other motorsports have had all of those features and dozens more true technical innovations for decades. So from this should I conclude that NASCAR is a full 30 years behind the rest of the world when it comes to their 'technology' ? I know it was only fairly recently that they decided the drivers would fare better in crashes if the circuits had tyre walls and impact barriers rather than three metres of impenetrable concrete to stop wayward cars.
Chris - www.carbibles.com

Throughout the rest of this website you'll find in-depth articles describing in intricate detail how everything automotive works. On this page, I've simplified all that knowledge into a series of basic car maintenance tips, subdivided by category. Some tips have simple explanations right here whilst others link back to the articles in the rest of the site. If you can't find what you're looking for, try the search button at the end of the top menu. If you still can't find what you're looking for, or have a suggestion for something else I should cover, contact me using the contact button on the top menu bar.
Wheels and tyres
Rotate your tyres!

check your tyre pressureEvery 5,000 miles or 8,000km, rotate your tyres. arrow Tyre rotation.
Clean brake dust off regularly

Brake dust contains all sorts of nasty stuff. If you leave it too long, the combination of road grime, moisture and heat from your brakes will bake it on to your wheels. Brake dust normally clings to wheels with static electricity so a damp sponge and clean cold water is the best way to get it off.
Check your tyre pressures

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy, handling and comfort. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. arrow Checking your tyre pressure.
Check your tread depth

Bald, slick tyres might be good for motor racing but they're no good on the road. Most tyres come with tread wear bars built into them now - find one, examine it and if your tread is too low, replace your tyres. Four new tyres might seem expensive but they're cheaper than a fine or an accident. arrow Tread wear bars.
Engine
Check your belts

At the front of your engine there will be a series of rubber drive belts that loop around various pulleys, driving everything from the alternator to the a/c compressor. Rubber perishes, more so in extreme conditions like those found in an operating engine bay. Get your timing belt and accessory drive belt checked every 25,000 miles, preferably replacing it every 50,000 miles. See the Fuel and Engine bible for information on interference engines and why checking your timing belts is a necessity, not a luxury: arrow Interference engines
Fuel Economy

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy very noticeably. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. arrow Checking your tyre pressures
Checking your oil level

This is something everyone can do - it's quick and easy and it'll tell you if your engine needs oil. If the oil is too high or too low, it can cause trouble for your engine. To check the oil, park on level ground and wait until the engine has cooled down after driving, then locate the dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean, then push it all the way back in until the top of it is seated properly in the dip tube again. Wait a moment then pull it out again. Check the level of the oil. If it's between the high and low marks, you're fine. (If it's too low, add a little.) The high and low marks can be denoted by two dots, an "H" and "L" or a shaded area on the dipstick. The photos below show a Honda dipstick which has the two dots. Why not just read the level first time around? The first time you pull the dipstick out, it will have oil all over it and it will be difficult to tell where the level is. That's why you need to wipe it on a rag to get a clean dipstick, then dip it back into the oil to get a good reading. More information on why you should check your oil level is here arrow Checking your oil level.
check your oil level

Checking your coolant level

Again, something everyone can do. The coolant is the other thing your engine cannot go without. Every engine is different but if you check your handbook you should find where the coolant reservoir is. It will normally be bolted to one side of the engine bay or the other, and be a white semi-transparent bottle. Wait until your engine is cool and take a look at it - the outside should have 'low' and 'high' markings on it and the level of coolant inside should be between the two.
Do not take the radiator cap off to check coolant levels. If the coolant system is still hot then it is still under pressure and the pressure release will burn you. arrow Engine cooling systems.
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Fuel / gas
Will higher octane or premium fuel give me better gas mileage and/or more power?

No. Sportier cars have higher compression engines which generate more power and require higher octane fuel to prevent detonation. That's where the myth of "premium = more power" came from. If your handbook says "regular", use regular. See octane and power for more information.
Electrical
Disconnecting and reconnecting your battery

negative battery terminalIf you're going to do any work on your car involving the electrical system, disconnect the battery first. To do this, loosen the connector for the negative/ground terminal first, and wiggle the terminal cap off. Use a wire-tie or similar to tie the cable back out of the way. If you need to take the battery out, you can now take off the positive connector.
Why negative then positive? If you disconnect the positive side of the battery first, the negative side is still connected to the entire car. If you drop a tool and it lands on the positive battery terminal and touches anything else on the car, you'll have an electrical short. By disconnecting the negative first, you're cutting off the return path for the current. Now, if a tool drops on to either of the battery terminals, it doesn't matter if it touches part of the chassis or not - there's no continuous path for the electrical current.
Reconnecting your battery. Connect the positive terminal first, and the negative second - the reverse of removal, and for the same reasons. When you slip the negative connector on, there will be a spark as it gets close and makes contact with the negative battery terminal. Don't be afraid of this - it's nothing to worry about. Make sure the terminal caps are done up nice and tight.
Check your battery terminals

Most modern cars run on a 12 volt negative ground electrical system. If your battery terminals or contacts aren't clean, you're making it more difficult for the current to pass around the electrical system. Remove the terminal caps as described above and clean each contact post with a wire brush to get a nice clean metal contact surface. Do the same to the terminal caps, then reattach them as described above.

Lights
One indicator or blinker is flashing faster than the other

negative battery terminalWhen you indicate one way and the blinker flashes quicker than when you indicate the other way, it means one of the bulbs has blown. An auto parts store will be able to tell you what sort of bulb you need to replace it with and your manual should show you how to get at the indicator bulbs - they're different on every car.
Don't touch the glass when changing headlight bulbs

Most headlight bulbs now are filled with halogen and have special coatings on the outside of the glass. If you pick the bulb up by the glass with your fingers, you will leave trace amounts of oil and grease on the glass. When the bulb is used, that area of the glass will get hotter than the rest and it will eventually cause the bulb to crack. When changing headlight bulbs, only hold the metal bulb holder at the base, or make sure you're wearing rubber surgical / mechanic's gloves (clean ones) if you're touching the glass.

Dash / instrument warning lights
check engine light
The check engine light.

Every new car now comes with OBD-II - On Board Diagnostics 2. This is a fault-registering system connected to sensors all over the car, engine, fuel and emissions system. When the check engine light comes on, it can mean many things. There are something like 4,000 unique OBD2 codes that can be stored. Handheld OBD2 diagnostic tools can be plugged in to the OBD2 port which is normally under the dash on the driver's side. These tools can read out the fault code and/or reset the system to contain no codes. Codes are split into two categories - historical/inactive, and active. The historical codes are lists of things that have been detected in the past but are no longer an issue, whilst the active codes are things that are a problem right now. Codes are subdivided into B-codes (body), C-codes (chassis) and the biggest list of all - P-codes (powertrain).
P0440 OBD-II code. This is the most common code you'll find and it's the first thing you should check. P0440 is the code for Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction which covers a multitude of sins. The one thing it covers that you can check is your gas cap (petrol cap). Most new cars have a pressurised fuel system and vapour recovery loop. If you've filled up with petrol and not twisted the gas cap until it clicks, you've not sealed the fuel system. It won't pressurise and the OBD2 system will log a P0440 code. In fact, on a lot of cars, that code is so common they'll actually have some way of telling you to check the gas cap. In the Honda Element, for example, if a P0440 code is logged, the dash scrolls "CHECK GAS CAP" across the odometer display. So if you get a check engine light, check the gas cap first and see if the light goes off. Note : even if the light does go off, the code will likely still be stored in the OBD system and will show up next time it is checked.
It wasn't the gas cap. If tightening the gas cap didn't do it, you'll need to find someone with an OBD2 diagnostics tool or reader. Some garages will charge you just for plugging the device in and reading the code. If they do, walk away. They're ripping you off. Better to find a garage or mechanic that will read the code and actually give you a diagnosis rather than just making you pay to find out a number. Smaller garages and local mechanics will normally do this for you for a small fee, and being independent, the diagnosis won't be predicated on you buying some expensive parts from a corporate chain.
If you're a do-it-yourself type used to working from shop manuals, then a lot of places that will give you the diagnostic code for free. In America specifically, the Schuck's chain do free diagnostics checks (Checker, Kragen, Murray's, Advance) as well as AutoZone. Drop in - don't phone up and ask. A lot of times if you phone up they'll tell you it's $40. If you just turn up, more often than not they'll do it for nothing. In the UK I'm not sure who does - if you know, drop me a line. The alternative, if you're into maintaining your own vehicles, is to buy a reader and do it yourself.
service engine light
The service engine light / Maint Reqd light.

This might indicate "Service", "Service Engine" or "Maint Reqd". It's an indicator that you're getting close to a scheduled maintenance interval. On some cars it's as simple as counting miles before it comes on, whilst on others it maps engine temperatures, oil temperatures, air temperatures and other indicators of probable stress to tell you when it might be time for new oil or a service. In most cars this can be overridden or reset by you, the owner. Your handbook will tell you if this is the case. If you take your car for a service, the garage should reset it for you.
Typically this light will come on when you start your car, and then turn off again as part of the self-check. If it stays on for 10 seconds then turns off, it normally means you're within 500 miles of needing a service. If it flashes for 10 seconds, it normally means you've exceeded a recommended service interval.
battery warning light
The electrical fault light.

This warning light is different in every car but normally it looks like a picture of a battery, similar to the picture on the left here. You'll see it come on and go off when you start your engine as part of the car's self-test, but if this light comes on and stays on, it means the electrical charging system is no longer working properly. Think of it like a cellphone battery. If the cellphone is plugged into the charger, you can use it indefinitely, but when you disconnect it from the charger, there's a limited amount of time before your battery runs out. It's exactly the same in your car, only bigger. Every car has an alternator - the charger - and a 12v battery used to supply power to the electrical system. If the alternator becomes faulty or the drive belt to it snaps, then it will not be able to do its job. The longer you drive, the more your car will use up the remaining juice in the battery and eventually the engine will die. This almost always requires a new or refurbished alternator.
brake warning light
Brake warning light 1

Most cars nowadays have a brake warning light on the dash. Its purpose is to alert you that something is wrong in the braking system somewhere. If it comes on, check your owner's manual to find out its meaning. Unlike the single-purpose ABS warning light, the brake warning light doesn't have a standard meaning; it could be used for multiple purposes. For example, the same light may be used to show that the hand brake (parking brake for the Americans amongst you) is on. If that's the case and you're driving, you ought to have noticed the smell of burning brake dust by now. The light can also indicate that the fluid in the master cylinder is low. Each manufacturer has a different use and standard for this light. Which is nice. Because it would be such a drag if the same indicator meant the same thing in every vehicle.
brake warning light
Brake warning light 2

If you've got an ABS-equipped car, you also have a second light - the ABS light. If it comes on, get it seen to as soon as possible. It means the ABS computer has diagnosed that something is amiss in the system. It could be something as simple as dirt in one of the sensors, or something as costly as an entire ABS unit replacement. Either way, if that light is on, then you, my friend, have got 1970's brakes. It's important to note that this light normally comes on when you start the car and then switches off a few seconds later. If it stays on, blinks, throbs, flashes or in any other way draws your attention to itself, take note. It's not doing it just to please itself.
coolant warning light

This is normally the coolant level warning light. If this comes on it means that the level of coolant in your radiator is low and needs topping up. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT! The coolant system is pressurised and it could easily release pressure and spray you with boiling coolant. Do it when the engine is cold. Top up the system with either a pre-mixed coolant bought from a shop, or with distilled water. Don't use tap water - the mineral deposits in it boil out in the cooling system and calcium gets depositted around the inside of the radiator making it less efficient (which will eventually cause it to fail). It's always best to use pre-mixed coolant, or to mix your own rather than using neat water. The coolant mixture behaves as an antifreeze in winter as well as a corrosion-inhibitor to stop your engine rusting from the inside out.
oil pressure warning light
Oil warning light

Typically this light will come on if your oil pressure is too low. Low oil pressure is serious and if you continue to drive with this light on, eventually your engine will die. Low oil pressure can be caused by a failed oil pump, a blocked oil filter or strainer in the sump, or by low oil levels - for example if your engine is burning oil. Either way, you need to get it fixed, and fast. Low oil pressure is A Bad Thing and your engine won't thank you for leaving this problem untreated.

Driving and Car Maintenance
Car Maintenance Checklist: Use the right grade of motor oil for your car. Keep tires properly inflated and aligned. Get regular tune-ups and maintenance checks. Replace clogged air filters. Check out www.fueleconomy.gov.

Transportation accounts for 67% of U.S. oil use—mainly in the form of gasoline. Luckily, there are plenty of ways to improve gas mileage.
Driving Tips

* Idling gets you 0 miles per gallon. The best way to warm up a vehicle is to drive it. No more than 30 seconds of idling on winter days is needed. Anything more simply wastes fuel and increases emissions.

* Aggressive driving (speeding, rapid acceleration, and hard braking) wastes gas. It can lower your highway gas mileage 33% and city mileage 5%.

* Avoid high speeds. Above 60 mph, gas mileage drops rapidly.
* Clear out your car; extra weight decreases gas mileage by 1% to 2% for every 100 pounds.
* Reduce drag by placing items inside the car or trunk rather than on roof racks. A roof rack or carrier provides additional cargo space and may allow you to buy a smaller car. However, a loaded roof rack can decrease your fuel economy by 5% or more.
* Check into telecommuting, carpooling and public transit to cut mileage and car maintenance costs.

Car Maintenance Tips

* Use the grade of motor oil recommended by your car's manufacturer. Using a different motor oil can lower your gasoline mileage by 1% to 2%.
* Keep tires properly inflated and aligned to improve your gasoline mileage by around 3.3%.
* Get regular engine tune-ups and car maintenance checks to avoid fuel economy problems due to worn spark plugs, dragging brakes, low transmission fluid, or transmission problems.
* Replace clogged air filters to improve gas mileage by as much as 10% and protect your engine.
* Combine errands into one trip. Several short trips, each one taken from a cold start, can use twice as much fuel as one trip covering the same distance when the engine is warm.

Long-Term Savings Tip

* Consider buying a highly fuel-efficient vehicle. A fuel- efficient vehicle, a hybrid vehicle, or an alternative fuel vehicle could save you a lot at the gas pump and help the environment. See the Fuel Economy Guide for more on buying a new fuel-efficient car or truck.


Financial Tips
How to Save Money : Preventative Car Maintenance

With the average car on the road today being more than 9 years old, it's notable that the average car is likely not covered under a service warranty. As such, keeping your car well maintained makes good financial sense because you'll need to cover any major repairs yourself. With the proper care and attention, a vehicle can last many years past its warranty, saving you and your household budget from these costly repairs.

Preventive car maintenance is nothing to be afraid of. Even if your knowledge of auto mechanics is limited, there are many fundamental things you can do to help avoid problems in the future. Let's review a list of tips compiled by the professionals at Credit Counselors:

* Get into the habit of bringing your car in for all of the regular recommended maintenance, as listed in your owner's manual. True, these services aren't free. But neglecting them is "penny-wise, pound foolish."
* You can improve your car's gas mileage somewhat through proper tire care. By ensuring that they're inflated to the right pressure, you'll optimize their performance. Also important to the life of your tires are wheel alignments, tire rotation, and tire balancing. Many of these services are offered quite affordably (often run as specials) by local oil change shops.
* Are you prepared in case of a flat tire? We recommend carrying a spare tire and the equipment necessary to change a tire at all times. You should also check to see that your spare tire is in decent shape. Flat tires can often be fixed relatively inexpensively instead of discarded completely.
* The engine is your car's most vital element and can bring about the most costly repairs of all. Take care of your engine by seeking professional advice when you see or hear signs of trouble (poor performance, engine noises, indicator lights going on, temperature gauges showing trouble, etc.). When caught early, chances are the repairs will be cheaper.
* Along those lines, one of the most important routine maintenance measures of all is to change your oil regularly. Some manufacturers recommend an oil and filter change every 3,000 miles. Others push that up to every 7,500 miles. Check your owner's manual. (Often, the recommended mileage intervals vary according to how you drive your car – i.e. mostly city driving vs. mostly highway driving.)
* Also consult your owner's manual for recommendations on radiator flushes, as well as brake, power steering, and transmission fluid changes.
* Without filters, your engine could become clogged and contaminated over time. Make sure to change your air filter, breather element, cabin filter, and fuel filter according to your car's maintenance schedule.
* Periodically inspect your hoses and belts, as damage to these components can lead to more serious problems.
* Visibility is of paramount importance to your safety. So, change your wipers annually.
* When headlamps, turning signals, or other lights burn out, most of these are easily replaced on your own (saving you further service fees).
* Keeping your car clean inside and out improves its resale value. Regular washings also protect your car's paint job, maintaining its resale value.
* Find a mechanic you can trust. When you do need repairs, you'll have the peace of mind that they'll be done properly and for a fair price (communicated to you in advance of the repair work). If friends or family have no recommendations, try your local Better Business Bureau.
* Retain your auto-related receipts. Not only will they help you schedule timely preventive maintenance, but they provide evidence of service in the event of a warranty dispute.
* Don't impulsively purchase a new car if your current one is aging. Occasional repair bills are often less costly in the long run than a monthly payment of several hundred dollars.

Auto ownership is something that should be worked into your household budget whether you have a new car under warranty or an older vehicle. The key is to make the most of your investment. If you keep your car running well, it'll pay you back with fewer expensive repairs.


MOTORING GUIDE - Car Maintenance

Basic car maintenance is something every car owner should know. Being able to check the engine oil, the pressure of the tyres and the overall condition of the brakes can save you money, and you won't need to rely on the skills of a mechanic to do everything. All you will need is some basic tools to do the job and of course some time!
Tyres
It's dangerous to drive on tyres that are in poor condition or incorrectly inflated. There's a legal minimum tread depth - crash while driving on illegal tyres and you'll be in trouble with the police and your insurance company.
Pressure

* Recommended pressure figures are for cold tyres, so you'll get a falsely high reading if you check them after driving for more than a few minutes. Always check tyre pressures cold.
* Pressure is measured in pounds per square inch (psi) and the right amounts for your car should be listed in your owner's manual. It's common for different amounts to apply to the front and rear tyres.
* If the amount on the pressure gauge is below that mentioned in your owner's manual, you will need to inflate the tyre. To do this, connect a pump or an air line on a garage forecourt and fill until the right amount is shown on the pressure gauge.
* If you put too much air into the tyre, depress the pin in the centre of the valve to let some out.
* Don't forget the pressure of your spare wheel. Your owner's manual should tell you the correct pressure.

Engine oil
If your engine doesn't have the right amount of oil, it could be seriously damaged, sometimes beyond repair.
Checking

* Check the level at least once a fortnight, if possible when the engine is cold and the car is on a level surface.
* The dipstick usually sticks out from one side of the engine. On more modern cars it may have a coloured handle: usually red, orange or yellow.
* Pull the dipstick out and wipe it clean with a rag. Return it to the full extent, pull it out again and check that the oil mark is between the upper and lower limits on the dipstick.

Topping up

* Make sure you use the right oil, and the same as what's currently in the engine. Your owner's manual will contain these details.
* Find the oil filler cap - it's usually on the top of the engine and marked 'oil'. Unscrew this carefully and place to one side. Pour in a small amount of new oil and recheck the level with the dipstick. Repeat until the level is about halfway between the maximum and minimum marks on the dipstick.
* Oil is usually replaced at every service inspection of your car. This is usually once a year or at a maximum of 10,000 miles. Refer to the owners' manual for details.

Exhaust
If the engine sounds rough or you can hear a blowing sound, the exhaust may have a leak. If so, have it checked.

The two emissions tested in the MOT are carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons (HC). If your car fails on either of these tests you will need to get the problem solved by an authorised service centre.
Shock absorbers
Push down on each corner of the car and then release. If the shock absorbers are working, the corner of the vehicle will quickly settle into its normal position. If it bounces, the shock absorber at that corner will need to be replaced.
Rust
During the MOT your entire car will be examined for rust, especially in structural areas.
Brakes
Pull on the handbrake. If it takes more than a few clicks before it will hold the car on a hill, the cable or rear calipers/drums need by an authorised service centre.

Check that there is no sign of brake fluid in the footwell, whether on the pedal, floor or carpets. This indicates a leakage.

Pump the brake until the pressure builds up and the pedal becomes rigid. Hold your foot on the pedal, feeling for any loss in pressure. If the pedal starts to give way, there is a leak in the system.

* Likewise if there is a great deal of pedal movement before the brakes begin to bite, the brakes need adjusting.
* If the pedal feels spongy and braking lacks sharpness, this indicates air in the system. A home brake bleed kit can cure this.

Brakes are crucially important for safety, of course, but complicated to fix. If there's a problem, avoid using your car until an authorised service centre can perform repairs and adjustments. Ask the service centre to check the overall condition of the braking system.
Long-term storage
If your car is going to be left unused for an extended time, there are some simple measures to avoid unnecessary damage:

* If it's winter, make sure that there is sufficient anti-freeze in the cooling system.
* Check that your battery is charged. Battery chargers are not expensive and it is worth giving it a boost. If you're going to be away for a long time (and you aren't using an immobiliser/alarm) disconnect the earth strap to prevent the battery losing charge
* Remove all valuables.
* Use a car cover to protect it from rain, dust and the habits of birds.
* Fit a visible steering lock.

Theft prevention
Hundreds of thousands of cars are stolen or broken into each year. There are some simple steps you can take to make sure you're not the next victim:

* Make sure you keep valuables out of sight when your car is unattended.
* Always close and lock doors, boot and sunroof. If it hasn't already got one, fit an alarm and immobiliser.
* Have the windows and windscreen etched with your car's numberplate.
* Try to leave your car in the most visible location, especially if it's staying there overnight.
* If your car is fitted with alloy wheels, replace one nut on each wheel with a locking version that needs a special adapter to remove.
* If the driver's view forward is obscured in any way by windscreen damage, it will need to be repaired or replaced - likewise, if wiper movement is interrupted.
* Your rear-view mirror should be secure and capable of being adjusted.
* Your front and rear numberplates must be in good condition, securely fitted and easily read.
* Under the bonnet there should be a small metal plate bearing the vehicle identification number (VIN). Make sure it's visible.

Summary
Taking care of your car can be a rewarding experience in more than one way, not only will you have the satisfaction of being able to fix things yourself, but you can also take pride in the knowledge you don't have to pay anyone to do it. If you feel you are out of your depth however, do not hesitate to take your car to your local service centre where they can check that your car is safe to go on the road. There are some good books on car maintenance available, but if you prefer the more practical approach enquire at your local schools that may offer evening classes.
Additional Information
Knowing some basic car maintenance can save you a lot of money with motoring costs. Some website that offer useful advice and guidance are:

* Compare Car Insurance
* Hints and Things
* SmartSense
* Auto Trader




Five Simple Ways to Save Money on Gas

You may wonder why you spend hundreds of dollars for your super fast cars. You may get all crazy and blame society for the oil price hike just because your fast cars are making you broke.
Don’t blame the society just yet. There are several simple ways of saving money on gasoline. You don’t even have to buy additional equipments. All you have to do is follow these five simple routines.

1) Replace the fancy gasoline with low-octane fuel
In filling up your new fast car, make sure to buy the lowest grade of gasoline. However, choose the most appropriate gas for your supercar automobile. Knowing which fuel works best for your fast cool car is always located in your owner’s manual. Look it up.
Filling up your car with premium gasoline, even if it can be filled with low-octane fuel, is just a waste of money. Besides, not buying the high-octane gasoline won’t boost your fast car’s performance, anyway.

2) Remember to tighten the gas cap
Gas naturally evaporates from your fast new car when the gas tank has an escape. According to the statistics, over 145 million gallons of gas evaporate yearly due to missing, damaged and loose gas caps. Why be one of those careless fast car owners? Tighten those gas caps now.

3) Air conditioning and shade
During summer, the intense sun can evaporate fuel instantly and make the insides of your hot fast car burn your skin up. For this reason, parking your car in the shade can be an effective gas-saving routine.
Besides, once you’ve parked your new fast car in a shady place, using the gas-hogging air conditioning can be counted out. Just remember that air conditioning can drag your car’s fuel economy by 10 to 20 percent.

However, when air conditioning is necessary, cool your car down by opening the windows, vents and sunroof. Turning on the air conditioning at full blast once you go into your super fast car will definitely waste your money and gas.

4) Engine Care
A fast car that is out of tune or failed an emission test can drag your gas mileage down to up to 4 percent. Regular tune-ups as well as spark plug and air filter replacements can provide your car with over 30 percent of fuel efficiency.

5) Fast Cars with good mileage
Buying cars with a good mileage is probably the most important tip in saving money on gas. To know which new fast car provides good gas mileage, check with an unbiased car dealer.

Believe it or not, these five simple routines can stretch up your gas dollar. Try it now and let it become your daily habit.
Basic car maintenance for new fast car owners

Buying a new fast car is like having a newborn baby. It requires proper care and maintenance. However, remember that each part is as fragile as a baby is. If you’re unfamiliar with the parts, familiarize yourself with your super fast car’s parts by going through the owner’s manual.
To get the most out of your hot fast car, make sure to follow these preventive maintenance measures.

1) Air Conditioning
A functioning air conditioner is important for daily comfort, especially during hot weather and summer season. When the air conditioning of your fast car gives out undesired cooling, it might be due to low refrigerant, a dirty condenser, air and moisture contamination or a mechanical problem.
If you have no clue on fixing any of these problems, check with a competent air conditioning technician to pinpoint and fix the air conditioner.

2) Brakes
The brakes of your fast new car are important due to safety reasons.
For instance, low brake fluid level can cause soft brake pedals. Wore down brake lining could cause the pedal to go all the way down. Dirty brake pads can cause the brakes to squeak. Insufficient hydraulic pressure or loose brake clearance can cause the brakes to pull your fast car to one side.
Having your brakes checked can prevent these situations and reduce the risks of accidents caused by brake malfunctions.

3) Engine and electrical system
Your super fast car’s electrical system includes the battery, starter, fuses and alternator. Proper maintenance of all the electrical system can avoid unwanted electrical faults.
Another important thing to consider is engine care. Always remember that the life and performance of your car engine lies on the engine oil. The oil should be checked regularly and calibrated to prevent engine breakdown. Also, replace the engine oil at recommended intervals.

4) Cooling System
When the engine of your cool fast car overheats, it is probably because the cooling system is ineffective. The cooling system should be regularly checked, especially during summer season. Make sure to give special attention to the pressure cap, hoses and fan belt. In order to protect your car from malfunctions during summer, get the cooling system serviced even before the start of summer.

Preventive maintenance is an important task of supercar automobile owners. If you make it your routine, it could prolong the life of your newfound baby. Following these basic car maintenance tips could help your new fast car deliver optimum performance. It can also reduce the risk of an unexpected car breakdown.
How to Keep your Car Smelling Clean

A brand-new smelling fast car does not necessarily mean it’s clean. In fact, those smell from new fast cars come from unsettled molecules of VOCs (volatile organic compounds) such as rubber or plastic materials and cleaning solvents.
According to a study in Australia, there are over 30 organic compounds, some toxic, that are found floating in fast new cars.
In order to counter these chemicals, drive with an open window for the first four to six months of cruising with your new fast car.
Always remember that your supercar automobile is a refuge of all smoke, bacteria, exhaust fumes and various airborne contaminants. A clean smell can be disrupted by either liquid and solid wastes or an automotive problem.

Here is a list of several smells that may be caused by internal problems of your hot fast car.

1) EXHAUST FUMES.
When your fast cars smells like exhaust fumes, it can be a sign of leaks in the exhaust system, including in the muffler, exhaust manifold, tailpipe and exhaust pipes. It can also be due to worn seal on the rear door or hatchback.
Once you smell this, make sure to take action immediately. Exhausts can be deadly due to carbon monoxide. During these occasions, it is best for your super fast car to be serviced by a mechanic or muffler.

2) GAS
If your fast car smells like raw gas, it could signify leakage in the tailpipe, muffler, exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. It can also be due to worn seal on rear door or hatchback.
When this happens, check if the gas cap is loose or misplaced. If the smell persists, bring your new fast car to the mechanic right away.

3) PLASTIC
The smell of burning plastic inside your super fast car could be caused by any kind of plastic lying on the road that has been stuck to the hot exhaust located beneath the car. Although this can be difficult to get rid off, it is best to crawl under the car and scrape the plastic manually.

4) OIL
Smelling oil leakage could cause light smoke and a very foul smell. This is usually caused by an oil engine leakage that spills into the exhaust manifold and begins to be burnt.
Preventive oil maintenance is the best way to avoid this problem. However, if you’re in this kind of situation, bring your new fast car to the mechanic to be fixed.
A foul smell on your fast car can mean more than it is. It can damage your engine or your tires and cause a car breakdown. Be cautious about these smells to prevent further damage of your fast new car. Contact a mechanic right away if an unusual smells brings about.

Few basic car maintenance tips

• Regular oil changes are very important to keep your engine in a good shape.
• Wash your car regularly, wax it once in a while to keep the car body shiny and free from corrosion.
• Take care of any minor concerns as soon as you can, so it won't cause serious problems and an expensive repair later
• Use only original parts
• How to check the engine oil
• Engine coolant
• Automatic transmission fluid
• Tires
• CV-joint boots
• Taking care of small problems
• Regular inspection
• Print Maintenance Reminder


How to check the engine oil

Place your car at the level spot. Stop the engine. Wait for a while to let the engine oil to pour down to the oil pan. Pull the engine oil dipstick. If you don't know where is the engine oil dipstick, check your owner's manual, usually it has a bright handle saying "engine oil".

Wipe it off with a clean rag or tissue. Then insert it back all the way down into its place.

Now, pull the dipstick again and check the oil level. Normally it should be at "FULL" mark. For example, here you can see that it's a bit lower. It's not a big problem yet, but it's better to top it up. Check the oil condition: If it's way too black, it's definitely time to change it. If it's slightly-brown, it's O.K. If it's dark-brown, but still transparent, it's admissible but it's better to change it soon.
If it's white (coffee with milk color) it means the engine coolant mixes with the engine oil because of some internal engine problem, for example, blown head gasket - have your car inspected.

How to top up the engine oil:
It would be better to add the same type and brand of the engine oil as you already have in the engine. Add a little amount of the oil as it's shown in the image. Wait for a minute to let the oil to pour down. Check the oil level again with the dipstick. If it's still low, add some more. But don't overfill it. Don't forget to install the dipstick back and close the oil filler cap when you finished.
How to check automatic transmission fluid.

Place your car at a level surface and engage the parking brake. Start the engine. Set transmission shifter in "P" (Park) position, and let the engine idle (on some cars this procedure may be different, check the owners' manual for details). Pull the transmission dipstick. Check your owners manual to find where transmission dipstick is located in your car.

Wipe it off with a clean lint free rag. Then insert it back carefully all the way down into its place.

Pull again and check the fluid level. If the engine is cold, it should be within "COLD" marks. If the car was driven and is fully warmed up, the level should be at the upper end of the "HOT" mark. If it's just a little bit lower I wouldn't worry about it. Otherwise I'd top it up. Check the fluid condition also: If it's too black and dirty with burnt smell - your transmission is not going to last. Normally it should be clean and transparent, as in the image. The new fluid comes red. Over the time it becomes brownish. If it is brown, check your owner's manual, may be it's time to change it. Some manufacturers require to change the transmission fluid at 30,000 or 50,000 miles others specify that you never have to change it - check what's your car owner's manual says.

How to top up the transmission fluid:
It's very important to use only specified transmission fluid - check your owners manual or simply visit your local dealer, they alway have proper transmission fluid in stock. Incorrect transmission fluid can even destroy the transmission. Add a small amount of the fluid through the dipstick pipe as shown in the image. Wait for a few minutes - let the fluid to flow down. Recheck the level again. Do not overfill, it also may cause problems with your transmission.

Engine coolant

Low coolant level will cause engine overheating, which may cause serious damage to the engine.

How to check the engine coolant level:
The coolant level should be between "LOW" and "FULL" marks in the coolant overflow tank as in the picture. If it's lower, top it up. If there is no coolant in overflow tank or you have to top it up quite often, have your car inspected in the garage, possibly there is a coolant leak.
Never open the radiator or coolant overflow tank when the engine is hot!

When engine temperature is reduced (few minutes after the engine has been turned off) , simply add a coolant into the overflow tank to "FULL" mark.
Tires


Check the tire pressure regularly - at least once a month. If you don't have tire pressure gauge it's really worth to buy it. You can find recommended tire pressure in the owner's manual or on the tire pressure placard. The maximum pressure listed on tires is NOT the proper pressure! Refer to the owner's manual
Rotate tires at every second oil change - it will insure all tires wear equally. Feel vibration at cruising speed? - have your tires balanced. There is a safe limit of the tread wear. If the tire is worn below this limit it's unsafe to drive. Refer to the result of mechanical inspection. Uneven tire wear indicates alignment problem.
Improper alignment causes increased tire and suspension components wear and poor handling. In worst case improper alignment may throw your car into a skid, especially on a wet road. If a car pulls aside, wanders or feels unstable on the road, have the alignment checked. Properly done alignment will make your car's ride a lot more enjoyable.
CV joint boots
CV joint boot is OK


Most of modern vehicles are Front-Wheel-Drive, and they all have CV-joints (Constant Velocity joint) used to transfer the engine torque to the front wheels. The CV-joint is greased inside and sealed by a rubber boot that unfortunately, tend to break sometimes. If the CV-joint boot breaks, the grease comes out, the dirt and water comes in and the whole axle unit may become inoperative in a short period of time. CV-joint located on the internal side of each of the front wheels. You can check CV-joint boots visually looking inside the front wheel arch from the front of the car with the wheel turned outside. The boot should be dry. If it's broken you will see a grease splashed all over the area. If the boot is broken, it needs to be replaced. If not replaced in time, whole axle shaft will need to be replaced which will cost you few hundred bucks more than just replacing the boot.
Broken CV joint boot
Taking care of small concerns in time may save you a lot more

As soon as you feel there is something wrong with your car like any kind of irregular noise, vibration, shimmer, or you note some leak or any warning light comes on while driving or anything that seems to be irregular - have your car inspected at a dealer or a garage as soon as you can - it might be unsafe to drive. It's definitely better to check any small problem before it will cause something serious.
Regular mechanical inspection

For your safety, I recommend to have your car inspected regularly, at least once a year, by a mechanic. I mean not just visual inspection by one of the fast lube places, but a mechanic that can lift your car and check major components such as brakes, suspension, etc., while having your tires rotated, for example. This is because many components (e.g ball joints), can not be inspected visually.