Get better gas mileage - improving your fuel economy
They used to say that you could only rely on two things in life - taxes and death. Not true. There's three things. Taxes, death and the cost of petrol sprialling forever upwards. So consider this page your guide to making the best of a bad situation. Follow these tips and you should be able to improve your mpg - miles per gallon. Better fuel economy = more money in your bank account.
First things first : measuring your gas mileage
It seems obvious but a lot of people just don't know how to measure their average gas mileage. Fuel economy is a total mystery to them. So bear with me - I realise to a lot of you this is the age-old adage of teaching you to suck eggs.
So - a lot of cars nowadays have an mpg readout that you can select from their onboard computer. Whilst these are useful, they do tend to be a bit optimistic. I've found over the past 6 to 8 years that on-board mpg displays tend to over-read by about 7%. Not much but enough to give you a skewed view of reality. So how do you measure your average mpg? It's easy. You need to start with a full tank and always fill your tank to the point where the pump cuts off. It's painful to your wallet, especially at today's prices, but it's the best chance you have.
So first - fill up. Fill your car to the point where the pump cuts off and zero your trip counter. Now you know you're starting from a 'full' tank. I say full because each car has a different amount of dead space at the top of the tank and in the fuel filler neck, but if you let the pump cut off on its own each time, it will generally fill to around the same level each time.
Next time you fill up, again fill the tank to the pump cutoff and importantly, make a note of the number of litres or gallons you put in, and the trip counter reading. Divide one by the other and you get either miles per gallon (mpg) or km per litre. Zero the trip counter again and keep a note of the mpg calculation.
Each time you fill up, fill it to the pump cutoff, and make a note of the amount that went in and the trip counter reading, calculating your mpg or litres per km each time.
Once you have four or five calculations, you can start to figure out your running average using some simple maths, or an online mileage tracker like mymilemarker.com or trackyourgasmileage.com. Below is the ongoing tracker for my current vehicle.
My TrackYourGasMileage.com Badge
New car or something else?
One of the first things that people think of once they think they're getting bad gas mileage, is buying a new car - a more fuel-efficient one or even a hybrid. But be careful - you have to do your homework here. Take into account how much you could sell your existing car for and how much you're going to pay for the new one. It's important because generally speaking, going this route will normally result in a net loss - you'll end up losing money unless you keep the new car for 5 years or more. Better fuel economy will mean that the day-to-day running expenses will be less once you've got the new car. But think about it - the initial outlay to swap cars will likely be huge.
So then you're left with the other option - getting better mpg out of your existing car. In order of ease-of-attainability then, the carbibles.com ten tips for better gas mileage:
1. Your right foot
So simple anyone can do it. If you're caning it away from the traffic lights, you're wasting petrol and your mpg will be down. If you're endurance racing at 80mph on the motorway, you're wasting petrol. Here's the thing - your gas mileage can drop off as much as 15% between driving at or below 65mph and driving above 65mph. Now I love speed as much as the next person but you have to be realistic here - do you want better fuel economy or to get there marginally quicker? I sound like a total wet blanket telling you this of course, but driving slower absolutely will improve your mpg. Why? Because once you get over about 65mph, you're using more engine power to overcome drag, which means consuming more petrol to do it.
What about when you're not on the motorway? Well consider a little less braking if you can. If you can see the next set of lights ahead of you are red, don't race up to them and come to a complete stop. Try to moderate your speed a little if you can do it safely. If you can get there as they turn green and the traffic in front begins to move, you're doing OK. That's because it takes more energy to get you going from a complete stop than it does from a slow roll. So if you can do this, it will improve your mpg.
lower your octane
2. Change octane if you can
Too many people drive around with medium or premium gas in their tank when they just don't need to. If your owner's manual says "regular", it means it. Putting mid-grade or premium in is just wasting money. Why? Unless you have a high-compression engine which could be prone to detonation (pinking / pinging), you have absolutely no need for high-octane petrol. The only thing that higher octane gives you is less probability of detonation. In high-performance cars with high-compression engines, that means allowing the engine management system to work at peak efficiency but for probably 75% of you, your car will quite happily run on the cheapest petrol you can put in it. Not an improvement in fuel economy per se, but a money saving at least.
3. Use the internet
Again - not so much about improving your mpg as saving money; no matter where you live, there will be one or more internet sites that can provide you with petrol prices in your area. Vote with your money. Buy from the cheap ones, and shun the expensive ones. It's not improving your mpg, but it is saving you money, and in the long term, that's what counts here. Apathy in this area is what the petrol companies rely on. To get you going, here's a couple of examples. US petrol prices. UK petrol prices. For others, use your favourite search engine.
4a. Check your tyre pressures
This is a total no-brainer. Check your tyre pressures regularly - make it part of your sunday routine or something. All motoring sites and magazines tell you the same thing and that's for a reason. If your tyre pressures are low, you will be increasing the rolling resistance of the tyre on the road and that will be robbing your fuel efficiency - your gas mileage will be down. So make sure they're up to manufacturer recommended values (at the very least) and watch your mpg get a little better.
4b. Get low rolling-resistance tyres
You might never have considered this, but manufacturers do make tyres designed for low rolling resistance. This means that there's less effort required to roll the tyre along the road surface. Less effort means less load on your engine. Less load means better mpg. When I went for aftermarket alloy wheels and tyres on my Honda Element, my gas mileage dropped by about 1mpg due simply to the change in tread pattern of the tyres.
get rid of the roof box
5. Get rid of the roof rack
You go biking or skiing at the weekends. Great. When you're commuting to work, that empty roof rack is adding aerodynamic drag to your car. More drag means more power to overcome it, which means worse mpg. Take it off when you're not using it. Same goes for those 'aerodynamic' roof boxes - if you're not using it, get rid of it. Yes they look aerodynamic but the fact of the matter is they do induce drag. And to be honest, they look silly. Hey - I know it means getting up and doing something rather than just routinely getting in your car and driving off but we're talking about gas mileage here. mpg. Fuel economy. It's all to do with money. Be lazy? Or save money?
6. Change your air filter
Out of sight, out of mind. I'm guilty of this. Your air filter is what protects your engine from ingesting all the dust, dirt and crap in the air. If it's doing its job well, it will clog up, much like the bag of a vacuum cleaner. Once it clogs up, your engine has a harder time sucking air through it. To compensate for the reduced airflow, the engine management system will richen up the mixture, using more petrol to keep the engine running smoothly. Replace your air filter once a year and you'll guarantee better gas mileage. So why am I guilty of this? At the time of writing I change the three-year-old filter in my car and my mpg jumped by 2.5 overnight. On my car that equated to a 13% improvement for an outlay of $14. Duh!
7. Change your oil and oil filter
Whilst you won't see any massive improvement by changing your oil and filter, you're ensuring that your engine is keeping its 'fresh blood'.
8. Get new spark plugs
Spark plugs work in an incredibly hostile environment. If you've got more than 30,000 miles on yours, change them. Fresh plugs that aren't covered in carbon desposits will certainly help you in your quest to become a fuel miser.
9. Ultrasonic cleaning for your fuel injectors
The only surefire way to clean your fuel injectors is to have them removed and given an ultrasonic bath. This is like those jewellery cleaners you might have seen. Basically it's a small tub filled with detergent solution that is hit with ultra high frequency vibrations or sound waves. The net effect is that any carbon deposits are shaken off the fuel injectors. Clean injectors give a more even fuel-air mix which results in a more predictable burn in the cylinder, which will contribute to improved gas mileage. If your injectors have never been done, or you've got more than 60,000 miles on them, consider getting the professionally cleaned. It won't be cheap but it's cheaper than a new car (by a huge margin) and it will help your mpg.
10. Remapping your ECU - chipping and tuning
Expensive one this, but it might be worth investigating. For the most part, chipping or remapping your engine management computer would normally be done to improve performance. It is possible however to go the other way - trade off some performance in exhange for better gas mileage. Not a lot of places are advertising this yet but as the price of petrol continues to spiral, I wouldn't be surprised to see this happen. For example, a few tuning houses in America have seen some interesting results from flashing European engine maps into US vehicles. It's a bit dodgy because it means those vehicles won't pass the emissions tests, but if you're serious, you could get a dual-map system. For the inspection and emissions, leave it in "US" mode. For everyday driving, use the European map. Of course you didn't get that idea from here :-)
What does all this add up to?
Realistically, if you religiously stick to the above points (from a regime of previously doing nothing special), you should expect to see an mpg improvement of about 15%. Doesn't sound like a lot? Let me put a number on it. Last year I spent around $2600 on petrol throughout the year. A 15% improvement in gas mileage correlates to a 15% decrease in outlay to fill my car. In my case about $400 a year. How useful is that? It's a round trip to Vegas (no hotel). 6 months car insurance. 5 weeks grocery shopping. And so on and so on. So you can keep wasting money if you like, but if you're serious about getting better gas mileage, these simple steps really will help.
Happy motoring, and I hope you see some improvements in your fuel economy.
Oh - and if you're interested, send me your ideas. After my initial blog post, I had some good ones come back straight away so on page 2 you'll find the expanding list of reader-submitted tips.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
TIPS FOR CAR MAINTENANCE
Basic Car Maintenance Tips
If you've read my site or blog for any length of time, you'll know I'm not the world's biggest fan of American cars. As an extension, I think NASCAR is the most pointless waste of motorsports in the history of Creation. (And I'm an atheist so that's saying something).
So it's amusing to read about their Car Of Tomorrow that was introduced in 2007. It had 'cutting-edge' innovations like crumple zones, a rerouted exhaust designed not to fry the driver, a front splitter, a larger rear wing and - well - that's it really. It still uses pushrod engines and with the exception of a couple of courses like Watkins Glen, they all still drive in left-handed circles.
Those design features would have been the Car Of Tomorrow in the late 70's. Most other motorsports have had all of those features and dozens more true technical innovations for decades. So from this should I conclude that NASCAR is a full 30 years behind the rest of the world when it comes to their 'technology' ? I know it was only fairly recently that they decided the drivers would fare better in crashes if the circuits had tyre walls and impact barriers rather than three metres of impenetrable concrete to stop wayward cars.
Chris - www.carbibles.com
Throughout the rest of this website you'll find in-depth articles describing in intricate detail how everything automotive works. On this page, I've simplified all that knowledge into a series of basic car maintenance tips, subdivided by category. Some tips have simple explanations right here whilst others link back to the articles in the rest of the site. If you can't find what you're looking for, try the search button at the end of the top menu. If you still can't find what you're looking for, or have a suggestion for something else I should cover, contact me using the contact button on the top menu bar.
Wheels and tyres
Rotate your tyres!
check your tyre pressureEvery 5,000 miles or 8,000km, rotate your tyres. arrow Tyre rotation.
Clean brake dust off regularly
Brake dust contains all sorts of nasty stuff. If you leave it too long, the combination of road grime, moisture and heat from your brakes will bake it on to your wheels. Brake dust normally clings to wheels with static electricity so a damp sponge and clean cold water is the best way to get it off.
Check your tyre pressures
Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy, handling and comfort. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. arrow Checking your tyre pressure.
Check your tread depth
Bald, slick tyres might be good for motor racing but they're no good on the road. Most tyres come with tread wear bars built into them now - find one, examine it and if your tread is too low, replace your tyres. Four new tyres might seem expensive but they're cheaper than a fine or an accident. arrow Tread wear bars.
Engine
Check your belts
At the front of your engine there will be a series of rubber drive belts that loop around various pulleys, driving everything from the alternator to the a/c compressor. Rubber perishes, more so in extreme conditions like those found in an operating engine bay. Get your timing belt and accessory drive belt checked every 25,000 miles, preferably replacing it every 50,000 miles. See the Fuel and Engine bible for information on interference engines and why checking your timing belts is a necessity, not a luxury: arrow Interference engines
Fuel Economy
Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy very noticeably. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. arrow Checking your tyre pressures
Checking your oil level
This is something everyone can do - it's quick and easy and it'll tell you if your engine needs oil. If the oil is too high or too low, it can cause trouble for your engine. To check the oil, park on level ground and wait until the engine has cooled down after driving, then locate the dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean, then push it all the way back in until the top of it is seated properly in the dip tube again. Wait a moment then pull it out again. Check the level of the oil. If it's between the high and low marks, you're fine. (If it's too low, add a little.) The high and low marks can be denoted by two dots, an "H" and "L" or a shaded area on the dipstick. The photos below show a Honda dipstick which has the two dots. Why not just read the level first time around? The first time you pull the dipstick out, it will have oil all over it and it will be difficult to tell where the level is. That's why you need to wipe it on a rag to get a clean dipstick, then dip it back into the oil to get a good reading. More information on why you should check your oil level is here arrow Checking your oil level.
check your oil level
Checking your coolant level
Again, something everyone can do. The coolant is the other thing your engine cannot go without. Every engine is different but if you check your handbook you should find where the coolant reservoir is. It will normally be bolted to one side of the engine bay or the other, and be a white semi-transparent bottle. Wait until your engine is cool and take a look at it - the outside should have 'low' and 'high' markings on it and the level of coolant inside should be between the two.
Do not take the radiator cap off to check coolant levels. If the coolant system is still hot then it is still under pressure and the pressure release will burn you. arrow Engine cooling systems.
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Fuel / gas
Will higher octane or premium fuel give me better gas mileage and/or more power?
No. Sportier cars have higher compression engines which generate more power and require higher octane fuel to prevent detonation. That's where the myth of "premium = more power" came from. If your handbook says "regular", use regular. See octane and power for more information.
Electrical
Disconnecting and reconnecting your battery
negative battery terminalIf you're going to do any work on your car involving the electrical system, disconnect the battery first. To do this, loosen the connector for the negative/ground terminal first, and wiggle the terminal cap off. Use a wire-tie or similar to tie the cable back out of the way. If you need to take the battery out, you can now take off the positive connector.
Why negative then positive? If you disconnect the positive side of the battery first, the negative side is still connected to the entire car. If you drop a tool and it lands on the positive battery terminal and touches anything else on the car, you'll have an electrical short. By disconnecting the negative first, you're cutting off the return path for the current. Now, if a tool drops on to either of the battery terminals, it doesn't matter if it touches part of the chassis or not - there's no continuous path for the electrical current.
Reconnecting your battery. Connect the positive terminal first, and the negative second - the reverse of removal, and for the same reasons. When you slip the negative connector on, there will be a spark as it gets close and makes contact with the negative battery terminal. Don't be afraid of this - it's nothing to worry about. Make sure the terminal caps are done up nice and tight.
Check your battery terminals
Most modern cars run on a 12 volt negative ground electrical system. If your battery terminals or contacts aren't clean, you're making it more difficult for the current to pass around the electrical system. Remove the terminal caps as described above and clean each contact post with a wire brush to get a nice clean metal contact surface. Do the same to the terminal caps, then reattach them as described above.
Lights
One indicator or blinker is flashing faster than the other
negative battery terminalWhen you indicate one way and the blinker flashes quicker than when you indicate the other way, it means one of the bulbs has blown. An auto parts store will be able to tell you what sort of bulb you need to replace it with and your manual should show you how to get at the indicator bulbs - they're different on every car.
Don't touch the glass when changing headlight bulbs
Most headlight bulbs now are filled with halogen and have special coatings on the outside of the glass. If you pick the bulb up by the glass with your fingers, you will leave trace amounts of oil and grease on the glass. When the bulb is used, that area of the glass will get hotter than the rest and it will eventually cause the bulb to crack. When changing headlight bulbs, only hold the metal bulb holder at the base, or make sure you're wearing rubber surgical / mechanic's gloves (clean ones) if you're touching the glass.
Dash / instrument warning lights
check engine light
The check engine light.
Every new car now comes with OBD-II - On Board Diagnostics 2. This is a fault-registering system connected to sensors all over the car, engine, fuel and emissions system. When the check engine light comes on, it can mean many things. There are something like 4,000 unique OBD2 codes that can be stored. Handheld OBD2 diagnostic tools can be plugged in to the OBD2 port which is normally under the dash on the driver's side. These tools can read out the fault code and/or reset the system to contain no codes. Codes are split into two categories - historical/inactive, and active. The historical codes are lists of things that have been detected in the past but are no longer an issue, whilst the active codes are things that are a problem right now. Codes are subdivided into B-codes (body), C-codes (chassis) and the biggest list of all - P-codes (powertrain).
P0440 OBD-II code. This is the most common code you'll find and it's the first thing you should check. P0440 is the code for Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction which covers a multitude of sins. The one thing it covers that you can check is your gas cap (petrol cap). Most new cars have a pressurised fuel system and vapour recovery loop. If you've filled up with petrol and not twisted the gas cap until it clicks, you've not sealed the fuel system. It won't pressurise and the OBD2 system will log a P0440 code. In fact, on a lot of cars, that code is so common they'll actually have some way of telling you to check the gas cap. In the Honda Element, for example, if a P0440 code is logged, the dash scrolls "CHECK GAS CAP" across the odometer display. So if you get a check engine light, check the gas cap first and see if the light goes off. Note : even if the light does go off, the code will likely still be stored in the OBD system and will show up next time it is checked.
It wasn't the gas cap. If tightening the gas cap didn't do it, you'll need to find someone with an OBD2 diagnostics tool or reader. Some garages will charge you just for plugging the device in and reading the code. If they do, walk away. They're ripping you off. Better to find a garage or mechanic that will read the code and actually give you a diagnosis rather than just making you pay to find out a number. Smaller garages and local mechanics will normally do this for you for a small fee, and being independent, the diagnosis won't be predicated on you buying some expensive parts from a corporate chain.
If you're a do-it-yourself type used to working from shop manuals, then a lot of places that will give you the diagnostic code for free. In America specifically, the Schuck's chain do free diagnostics checks (Checker, Kragen, Murray's, Advance) as well as AutoZone. Drop in - don't phone up and ask. A lot of times if you phone up they'll tell you it's $40. If you just turn up, more often than not they'll do it for nothing. In the UK I'm not sure who does - if you know, drop me a line. The alternative, if you're into maintaining your own vehicles, is to buy a reader and do it yourself.
service engine light
The service engine light / Maint Reqd light.
This might indicate "Service", "Service Engine" or "Maint Reqd". It's an indicator that you're getting close to a scheduled maintenance interval. On some cars it's as simple as counting miles before it comes on, whilst on others it maps engine temperatures, oil temperatures, air temperatures and other indicators of probable stress to tell you when it might be time for new oil or a service. In most cars this can be overridden or reset by you, the owner. Your handbook will tell you if this is the case. If you take your car for a service, the garage should reset it for you.
Typically this light will come on when you start your car, and then turn off again as part of the self-check. If it stays on for 10 seconds then turns off, it normally means you're within 500 miles of needing a service. If it flashes for 10 seconds, it normally means you've exceeded a recommended service interval.
battery warning light
The electrical fault light.
This warning light is different in every car but normally it looks like a picture of a battery, similar to the picture on the left here. You'll see it come on and go off when you start your engine as part of the car's self-test, but if this light comes on and stays on, it means the electrical charging system is no longer working properly. Think of it like a cellphone battery. If the cellphone is plugged into the charger, you can use it indefinitely, but when you disconnect it from the charger, there's a limited amount of time before your battery runs out. It's exactly the same in your car, only bigger. Every car has an alternator - the charger - and a 12v battery used to supply power to the electrical system. If the alternator becomes faulty or the drive belt to it snaps, then it will not be able to do its job. The longer you drive, the more your car will use up the remaining juice in the battery and eventually the engine will die. This almost always requires a new or refurbished alternator.
brake warning light
Brake warning light 1
Most cars nowadays have a brake warning light on the dash. Its purpose is to alert you that something is wrong in the braking system somewhere. If it comes on, check your owner's manual to find out its meaning. Unlike the single-purpose ABS warning light, the brake warning light doesn't have a standard meaning; it could be used for multiple purposes. For example, the same light may be used to show that the hand brake (parking brake for the Americans amongst you) is on. If that's the case and you're driving, you ought to have noticed the smell of burning brake dust by now. The light can also indicate that the fluid in the master cylinder is low. Each manufacturer has a different use and standard for this light. Which is nice. Because it would be such a drag if the same indicator meant the same thing in every vehicle.
brake warning light
Brake warning light 2
If you've got an ABS-equipped car, you also have a second light - the ABS light. If it comes on, get it seen to as soon as possible. It means the ABS computer has diagnosed that something is amiss in the system. It could be something as simple as dirt in one of the sensors, or something as costly as an entire ABS unit replacement. Either way, if that light is on, then you, my friend, have got 1970's brakes. It's important to note that this light normally comes on when you start the car and then switches off a few seconds later. If it stays on, blinks, throbs, flashes or in any other way draws your attention to itself, take note. It's not doing it just to please itself.
coolant warning light
This is normally the coolant level warning light. If this comes on it means that the level of coolant in your radiator is low and needs topping up. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT! The coolant system is pressurised and it could easily release pressure and spray you with boiling coolant. Do it when the engine is cold. Top up the system with either a pre-mixed coolant bought from a shop, or with distilled water. Don't use tap water - the mineral deposits in it boil out in the cooling system and calcium gets depositted around the inside of the radiator making it less efficient (which will eventually cause it to fail). It's always best to use pre-mixed coolant, or to mix your own rather than using neat water. The coolant mixture behaves as an antifreeze in winter as well as a corrosion-inhibitor to stop your engine rusting from the inside out.
oil pressure warning light
Oil warning light
Typically this light will come on if your oil pressure is too low. Low oil pressure is serious and if you continue to drive with this light on, eventually your engine will die. Low oil pressure can be caused by a failed oil pump, a blocked oil filter or strainer in the sump, or by low oil levels - for example if your engine is burning oil. Either way, you need to get it fixed, and fast. Low oil pressure is A Bad Thing and your engine won't thank you for leaving this problem untreated.
Driving and Car Maintenance
Car Maintenance Checklist: Use the right grade of motor oil for your car. Keep tires properly inflated and aligned. Get regular tune-ups and maintenance checks. Replace clogged air filters. Check out www.fueleconomy.gov.
Transportation accounts for 67% of U.S. oil use—mainly in the form of gasoline. Luckily, there are plenty of ways to improve gas mileage.
Driving Tips
* Idling gets you 0 miles per gallon. The best way to warm up a vehicle is to drive it. No more than 30 seconds of idling on winter days is needed. Anything more simply wastes fuel and increases emissions.
* Aggressive driving (speeding, rapid acceleration, and hard braking) wastes gas. It can lower your highway gas mileage 33% and city mileage 5%.
* Avoid high speeds. Above 60 mph, gas mileage drops rapidly.
* Clear out your car; extra weight decreases gas mileage by 1% to 2% for every 100 pounds.
* Reduce drag by placing items inside the car or trunk rather than on roof racks. A roof rack or carrier provides additional cargo space and may allow you to buy a smaller car. However, a loaded roof rack can decrease your fuel economy by 5% or more.
* Check into telecommuting, carpooling and public transit to cut mileage and car maintenance costs.
Car Maintenance Tips
* Use the grade of motor oil recommended by your car's manufacturer. Using a different motor oil can lower your gasoline mileage by 1% to 2%.
* Keep tires properly inflated and aligned to improve your gasoline mileage by around 3.3%.
* Get regular engine tune-ups and car maintenance checks to avoid fuel economy problems due to worn spark plugs, dragging brakes, low transmission fluid, or transmission problems.
* Replace clogged air filters to improve gas mileage by as much as 10% and protect your engine.
* Combine errands into one trip. Several short trips, each one taken from a cold start, can use twice as much fuel as one trip covering the same distance when the engine is warm.
Long-Term Savings Tip
* Consider buying a highly fuel-efficient vehicle. A fuel- efficient vehicle, a hybrid vehicle, or an alternative fuel vehicle could save you a lot at the gas pump and help the environment. See the Fuel Economy Guide for more on buying a new fuel-efficient car or truck.
Financial Tips
How to Save Money : Preventative Car Maintenance
With the average car on the road today being more than 9 years old, it's notable that the average car is likely not covered under a service warranty. As such, keeping your car well maintained makes good financial sense because you'll need to cover any major repairs yourself. With the proper care and attention, a vehicle can last many years past its warranty, saving you and your household budget from these costly repairs.
Preventive car maintenance is nothing to be afraid of. Even if your knowledge of auto mechanics is limited, there are many fundamental things you can do to help avoid problems in the future. Let's review a list of tips compiled by the professionals at Credit Counselors:
* Get into the habit of bringing your car in for all of the regular recommended maintenance, as listed in your owner's manual. True, these services aren't free. But neglecting them is "penny-wise, pound foolish."
* You can improve your car's gas mileage somewhat through proper tire care. By ensuring that they're inflated to the right pressure, you'll optimize their performance. Also important to the life of your tires are wheel alignments, tire rotation, and tire balancing. Many of these services are offered quite affordably (often run as specials) by local oil change shops.
* Are you prepared in case of a flat tire? We recommend carrying a spare tire and the equipment necessary to change a tire at all times. You should also check to see that your spare tire is in decent shape. Flat tires can often be fixed relatively inexpensively instead of discarded completely.
* The engine is your car's most vital element and can bring about the most costly repairs of all. Take care of your engine by seeking professional advice when you see or hear signs of trouble (poor performance, engine noises, indicator lights going on, temperature gauges showing trouble, etc.). When caught early, chances are the repairs will be cheaper.
* Along those lines, one of the most important routine maintenance measures of all is to change your oil regularly. Some manufacturers recommend an oil and filter change every 3,000 miles. Others push that up to every 7,500 miles. Check your owner's manual. (Often, the recommended mileage intervals vary according to how you drive your car – i.e. mostly city driving vs. mostly highway driving.)
* Also consult your owner's manual for recommendations on radiator flushes, as well as brake, power steering, and transmission fluid changes.
* Without filters, your engine could become clogged and contaminated over time. Make sure to change your air filter, breather element, cabin filter, and fuel filter according to your car's maintenance schedule.
* Periodically inspect your hoses and belts, as damage to these components can lead to more serious problems.
* Visibility is of paramount importance to your safety. So, change your wipers annually.
* When headlamps, turning signals, or other lights burn out, most of these are easily replaced on your own (saving you further service fees).
* Keeping your car clean inside and out improves its resale value. Regular washings also protect your car's paint job, maintaining its resale value.
* Find a mechanic you can trust. When you do need repairs, you'll have the peace of mind that they'll be done properly and for a fair price (communicated to you in advance of the repair work). If friends or family have no recommendations, try your local Better Business Bureau.
* Retain your auto-related receipts. Not only will they help you schedule timely preventive maintenance, but they provide evidence of service in the event of a warranty dispute.
* Don't impulsively purchase a new car if your current one is aging. Occasional repair bills are often less costly in the long run than a monthly payment of several hundred dollars.
Auto ownership is something that should be worked into your household budget whether you have a new car under warranty or an older vehicle. The key is to make the most of your investment. If you keep your car running well, it'll pay you back with fewer expensive repairs.
MOTORING GUIDE - Car Maintenance
Basic car maintenance is something every car owner should know. Being able to check the engine oil, the pressure of the tyres and the overall condition of the brakes can save you money, and you won't need to rely on the skills of a mechanic to do everything. All you will need is some basic tools to do the job and of course some time!
Tyres
It's dangerous to drive on tyres that are in poor condition or incorrectly inflated. There's a legal minimum tread depth - crash while driving on illegal tyres and you'll be in trouble with the police and your insurance company.
Pressure
* Recommended pressure figures are for cold tyres, so you'll get a falsely high reading if you check them after driving for more than a few minutes. Always check tyre pressures cold.
* Pressure is measured in pounds per square inch (psi) and the right amounts for your car should be listed in your owner's manual. It's common for different amounts to apply to the front and rear tyres.
* If the amount on the pressure gauge is below that mentioned in your owner's manual, you will need to inflate the tyre. To do this, connect a pump or an air line on a garage forecourt and fill until the right amount is shown on the pressure gauge.
* If you put too much air into the tyre, depress the pin in the centre of the valve to let some out.
* Don't forget the pressure of your spare wheel. Your owner's manual should tell you the correct pressure.
Engine oil
If your engine doesn't have the right amount of oil, it could be seriously damaged, sometimes beyond repair.
Checking
* Check the level at least once a fortnight, if possible when the engine is cold and the car is on a level surface.
* The dipstick usually sticks out from one side of the engine. On more modern cars it may have a coloured handle: usually red, orange or yellow.
* Pull the dipstick out and wipe it clean with a rag. Return it to the full extent, pull it out again and check that the oil mark is between the upper and lower limits on the dipstick.
Topping up
* Make sure you use the right oil, and the same as what's currently in the engine. Your owner's manual will contain these details.
* Find the oil filler cap - it's usually on the top of the engine and marked 'oil'. Unscrew this carefully and place to one side. Pour in a small amount of new oil and recheck the level with the dipstick. Repeat until the level is about halfway between the maximum and minimum marks on the dipstick.
* Oil is usually replaced at every service inspection of your car. This is usually once a year or at a maximum of 10,000 miles. Refer to the owners' manual for details.
Exhaust
If the engine sounds rough or you can hear a blowing sound, the exhaust may have a leak. If so, have it checked.
The two emissions tested in the MOT are carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons (HC). If your car fails on either of these tests you will need to get the problem solved by an authorised service centre.
Shock absorbers
Push down on each corner of the car and then release. If the shock absorbers are working, the corner of the vehicle will quickly settle into its normal position. If it bounces, the shock absorber at that corner will need to be replaced.
Rust
During the MOT your entire car will be examined for rust, especially in structural areas.
Brakes
Pull on the handbrake. If it takes more than a few clicks before it will hold the car on a hill, the cable or rear calipers/drums need by an authorised service centre.
Check that there is no sign of brake fluid in the footwell, whether on the pedal, floor or carpets. This indicates a leakage.
Pump the brake until the pressure builds up and the pedal becomes rigid. Hold your foot on the pedal, feeling for any loss in pressure. If the pedal starts to give way, there is a leak in the system.
* Likewise if there is a great deal of pedal movement before the brakes begin to bite, the brakes need adjusting.
* If the pedal feels spongy and braking lacks sharpness, this indicates air in the system. A home brake bleed kit can cure this.
Brakes are crucially important for safety, of course, but complicated to fix. If there's a problem, avoid using your car until an authorised service centre can perform repairs and adjustments. Ask the service centre to check the overall condition of the braking system.
Long-term storage
If your car is going to be left unused for an extended time, there are some simple measures to avoid unnecessary damage:
* If it's winter, make sure that there is sufficient anti-freeze in the cooling system.
* Check that your battery is charged. Battery chargers are not expensive and it is worth giving it a boost. If you're going to be away for a long time (and you aren't using an immobiliser/alarm) disconnect the earth strap to prevent the battery losing charge
* Remove all valuables.
* Use a car cover to protect it from rain, dust and the habits of birds.
* Fit a visible steering lock.
Theft prevention
Hundreds of thousands of cars are stolen or broken into each year. There are some simple steps you can take to make sure you're not the next victim:
* Make sure you keep valuables out of sight when your car is unattended.
* Always close and lock doors, boot and sunroof. If it hasn't already got one, fit an alarm and immobiliser.
* Have the windows and windscreen etched with your car's numberplate.
* Try to leave your car in the most visible location, especially if it's staying there overnight.
* If your car is fitted with alloy wheels, replace one nut on each wheel with a locking version that needs a special adapter to remove.
* If the driver's view forward is obscured in any way by windscreen damage, it will need to be repaired or replaced - likewise, if wiper movement is interrupted.
* Your rear-view mirror should be secure and capable of being adjusted.
* Your front and rear numberplates must be in good condition, securely fitted and easily read.
* Under the bonnet there should be a small metal plate bearing the vehicle identification number (VIN). Make sure it's visible.
Summary
Taking care of your car can be a rewarding experience in more than one way, not only will you have the satisfaction of being able to fix things yourself, but you can also take pride in the knowledge you don't have to pay anyone to do it. If you feel you are out of your depth however, do not hesitate to take your car to your local service centre where they can check that your car is safe to go on the road. There are some good books on car maintenance available, but if you prefer the more practical approach enquire at your local schools that may offer evening classes.
Additional Information
Knowing some basic car maintenance can save you a lot of money with motoring costs. Some website that offer useful advice and guidance are:
* Compare Car Insurance
* Hints and Things
* SmartSense
* Auto Trader
Five Simple Ways to Save Money on Gas
You may wonder why you spend hundreds of dollars for your super fast cars. You may get all crazy and blame society for the oil price hike just because your fast cars are making you broke.
Don’t blame the society just yet. There are several simple ways of saving money on gasoline. You don’t even have to buy additional equipments. All you have to do is follow these five simple routines.
1) Replace the fancy gasoline with low-octane fuel
In filling up your new fast car, make sure to buy the lowest grade of gasoline. However, choose the most appropriate gas for your supercar automobile. Knowing which fuel works best for your fast cool car is always located in your owner’s manual. Look it up.
Filling up your car with premium gasoline, even if it can be filled with low-octane fuel, is just a waste of money. Besides, not buying the high-octane gasoline won’t boost your fast car’s performance, anyway.
2) Remember to tighten the gas cap
Gas naturally evaporates from your fast new car when the gas tank has an escape. According to the statistics, over 145 million gallons of gas evaporate yearly due to missing, damaged and loose gas caps. Why be one of those careless fast car owners? Tighten those gas caps now.
3) Air conditioning and shade
During summer, the intense sun can evaporate fuel instantly and make the insides of your hot fast car burn your skin up. For this reason, parking your car in the shade can be an effective gas-saving routine.
Besides, once you’ve parked your new fast car in a shady place, using the gas-hogging air conditioning can be counted out. Just remember that air conditioning can drag your car’s fuel economy by 10 to 20 percent.
However, when air conditioning is necessary, cool your car down by opening the windows, vents and sunroof. Turning on the air conditioning at full blast once you go into your super fast car will definitely waste your money and gas.
4) Engine Care
A fast car that is out of tune or failed an emission test can drag your gas mileage down to up to 4 percent. Regular tune-ups as well as spark plug and air filter replacements can provide your car with over 30 percent of fuel efficiency.
5) Fast Cars with good mileage
Buying cars with a good mileage is probably the most important tip in saving money on gas. To know which new fast car provides good gas mileage, check with an unbiased car dealer.
Believe it or not, these five simple routines can stretch up your gas dollar. Try it now and let it become your daily habit.
Basic car maintenance for new fast car owners
Buying a new fast car is like having a newborn baby. It requires proper care and maintenance. However, remember that each part is as fragile as a baby is. If you’re unfamiliar with the parts, familiarize yourself with your super fast car’s parts by going through the owner’s manual.
To get the most out of your hot fast car, make sure to follow these preventive maintenance measures.
1) Air Conditioning
A functioning air conditioner is important for daily comfort, especially during hot weather and summer season. When the air conditioning of your fast car gives out undesired cooling, it might be due to low refrigerant, a dirty condenser, air and moisture contamination or a mechanical problem.
If you have no clue on fixing any of these problems, check with a competent air conditioning technician to pinpoint and fix the air conditioner.
2) Brakes
The brakes of your fast new car are important due to safety reasons.
For instance, low brake fluid level can cause soft brake pedals. Wore down brake lining could cause the pedal to go all the way down. Dirty brake pads can cause the brakes to squeak. Insufficient hydraulic pressure or loose brake clearance can cause the brakes to pull your fast car to one side.
Having your brakes checked can prevent these situations and reduce the risks of accidents caused by brake malfunctions.
3) Engine and electrical system
Your super fast car’s electrical system includes the battery, starter, fuses and alternator. Proper maintenance of all the electrical system can avoid unwanted electrical faults.
Another important thing to consider is engine care. Always remember that the life and performance of your car engine lies on the engine oil. The oil should be checked regularly and calibrated to prevent engine breakdown. Also, replace the engine oil at recommended intervals.
4) Cooling System
When the engine of your cool fast car overheats, it is probably because the cooling system is ineffective. The cooling system should be regularly checked, especially during summer season. Make sure to give special attention to the pressure cap, hoses and fan belt. In order to protect your car from malfunctions during summer, get the cooling system serviced even before the start of summer.
Preventive maintenance is an important task of supercar automobile owners. If you make it your routine, it could prolong the life of your newfound baby. Following these basic car maintenance tips could help your new fast car deliver optimum performance. It can also reduce the risk of an unexpected car breakdown.
How to Keep your Car Smelling Clean
A brand-new smelling fast car does not necessarily mean it’s clean. In fact, those smell from new fast cars come from unsettled molecules of VOCs (volatile organic compounds) such as rubber or plastic materials and cleaning solvents.
According to a study in Australia, there are over 30 organic compounds, some toxic, that are found floating in fast new cars.
In order to counter these chemicals, drive with an open window for the first four to six months of cruising with your new fast car.
Always remember that your supercar automobile is a refuge of all smoke, bacteria, exhaust fumes and various airborne contaminants. A clean smell can be disrupted by either liquid and solid wastes or an automotive problem.
Here is a list of several smells that may be caused by internal problems of your hot fast car.
1) EXHAUST FUMES.
When your fast cars smells like exhaust fumes, it can be a sign of leaks in the exhaust system, including in the muffler, exhaust manifold, tailpipe and exhaust pipes. It can also be due to worn seal on the rear door or hatchback.
Once you smell this, make sure to take action immediately. Exhausts can be deadly due to carbon monoxide. During these occasions, it is best for your super fast car to be serviced by a mechanic or muffler.
2) GAS
If your fast car smells like raw gas, it could signify leakage in the tailpipe, muffler, exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. It can also be due to worn seal on rear door or hatchback.
When this happens, check if the gas cap is loose or misplaced. If the smell persists, bring your new fast car to the mechanic right away.
3) PLASTIC
The smell of burning plastic inside your super fast car could be caused by any kind of plastic lying on the road that has been stuck to the hot exhaust located beneath the car. Although this can be difficult to get rid off, it is best to crawl under the car and scrape the plastic manually.
4) OIL
Smelling oil leakage could cause light smoke and a very foul smell. This is usually caused by an oil engine leakage that spills into the exhaust manifold and begins to be burnt.
Preventive oil maintenance is the best way to avoid this problem. However, if you’re in this kind of situation, bring your new fast car to the mechanic to be fixed.
A foul smell on your fast car can mean more than it is. It can damage your engine or your tires and cause a car breakdown. Be cautious about these smells to prevent further damage of your fast new car. Contact a mechanic right away if an unusual smells brings about.
Few basic car maintenance tips
• Regular oil changes are very important to keep your engine in a good shape.
• Wash your car regularly, wax it once in a while to keep the car body shiny and free from corrosion.
• Take care of any minor concerns as soon as you can, so it won't cause serious problems and an expensive repair later
• Use only original parts
• How to check the engine oil
• Engine coolant
• Automatic transmission fluid
• Tires
• CV-joint boots
• Taking care of small problems
• Regular inspection
• Print Maintenance Reminder
How to check the engine oil
Place your car at the level spot. Stop the engine. Wait for a while to let the engine oil to pour down to the oil pan. Pull the engine oil dipstick. If you don't know where is the engine oil dipstick, check your owner's manual, usually it has a bright handle saying "engine oil".
Wipe it off with a clean rag or tissue. Then insert it back all the way down into its place.
Now, pull the dipstick again and check the oil level. Normally it should be at "FULL" mark. For example, here you can see that it's a bit lower. It's not a big problem yet, but it's better to top it up. Check the oil condition: If it's way too black, it's definitely time to change it. If it's slightly-brown, it's O.K. If it's dark-brown, but still transparent, it's admissible but it's better to change it soon.
If it's white (coffee with milk color) it means the engine coolant mixes with the engine oil because of some internal engine problem, for example, blown head gasket - have your car inspected.
How to top up the engine oil:
It would be better to add the same type and brand of the engine oil as you already have in the engine. Add a little amount of the oil as it's shown in the image. Wait for a minute to let the oil to pour down. Check the oil level again with the dipstick. If it's still low, add some more. But don't overfill it. Don't forget to install the dipstick back and close the oil filler cap when you finished.
How to check automatic transmission fluid.
Place your car at a level surface and engage the parking brake. Start the engine. Set transmission shifter in "P" (Park) position, and let the engine idle (on some cars this procedure may be different, check the owners' manual for details). Pull the transmission dipstick. Check your owners manual to find where transmission dipstick is located in your car.
Wipe it off with a clean lint free rag. Then insert it back carefully all the way down into its place.
Pull again and check the fluid level. If the engine is cold, it should be within "COLD" marks. If the car was driven and is fully warmed up, the level should be at the upper end of the "HOT" mark. If it's just a little bit lower I wouldn't worry about it. Otherwise I'd top it up. Check the fluid condition also: If it's too black and dirty with burnt smell - your transmission is not going to last. Normally it should be clean and transparent, as in the image. The new fluid comes red. Over the time it becomes brownish. If it is brown, check your owner's manual, may be it's time to change it. Some manufacturers require to change the transmission fluid at 30,000 or 50,000 miles others specify that you never have to change it - check what's your car owner's manual says.
How to top up the transmission fluid:
It's very important to use only specified transmission fluid - check your owners manual or simply visit your local dealer, they alway have proper transmission fluid in stock. Incorrect transmission fluid can even destroy the transmission. Add a small amount of the fluid through the dipstick pipe as shown in the image. Wait for a few minutes - let the fluid to flow down. Recheck the level again. Do not overfill, it also may cause problems with your transmission.
Engine coolant
Low coolant level will cause engine overheating, which may cause serious damage to the engine.
How to check the engine coolant level:
The coolant level should be between "LOW" and "FULL" marks in the coolant overflow tank as in the picture. If it's lower, top it up. If there is no coolant in overflow tank or you have to top it up quite often, have your car inspected in the garage, possibly there is a coolant leak.
Never open the radiator or coolant overflow tank when the engine is hot!
When engine temperature is reduced (few minutes after the engine has been turned off) , simply add a coolant into the overflow tank to "FULL" mark.
Tires
Check the tire pressure regularly - at least once a month. If you don't have tire pressure gauge it's really worth to buy it. You can find recommended tire pressure in the owner's manual or on the tire pressure placard. The maximum pressure listed on tires is NOT the proper pressure! Refer to the owner's manual
Rotate tires at every second oil change - it will insure all tires wear equally. Feel vibration at cruising speed? - have your tires balanced. There is a safe limit of the tread wear. If the tire is worn below this limit it's unsafe to drive. Refer to the result of mechanical inspection. Uneven tire wear indicates alignment problem.
Improper alignment causes increased tire and suspension components wear and poor handling. In worst case improper alignment may throw your car into a skid, especially on a wet road. If a car pulls aside, wanders or feels unstable on the road, have the alignment checked. Properly done alignment will make your car's ride a lot more enjoyable.
CV joint boots
CV joint boot is OK
Most of modern vehicles are Front-Wheel-Drive, and they all have CV-joints (Constant Velocity joint) used to transfer the engine torque to the front wheels. The CV-joint is greased inside and sealed by a rubber boot that unfortunately, tend to break sometimes. If the CV-joint boot breaks, the grease comes out, the dirt and water comes in and the whole axle unit may become inoperative in a short period of time. CV-joint located on the internal side of each of the front wheels. You can check CV-joint boots visually looking inside the front wheel arch from the front of the car with the wheel turned outside. The boot should be dry. If it's broken you will see a grease splashed all over the area. If the boot is broken, it needs to be replaced. If not replaced in time, whole axle shaft will need to be replaced which will cost you few hundred bucks more than just replacing the boot.
Broken CV joint boot
Taking care of small concerns in time may save you a lot more
As soon as you feel there is something wrong with your car like any kind of irregular noise, vibration, shimmer, or you note some leak or any warning light comes on while driving or anything that seems to be irregular - have your car inspected at a dealer or a garage as soon as you can - it might be unsafe to drive. It's definitely better to check any small problem before it will cause something serious.
Regular mechanical inspection
For your safety, I recommend to have your car inspected regularly, at least once a year, by a mechanic. I mean not just visual inspection by one of the fast lube places, but a mechanic that can lift your car and check major components such as brakes, suspension, etc., while having your tires rotated, for example. This is because many components (e.g ball joints), can not be inspected visually.
If you've read my site or blog for any length of time, you'll know I'm not the world's biggest fan of American cars. As an extension, I think NASCAR is the most pointless waste of motorsports in the history of Creation. (And I'm an atheist so that's saying something).
So it's amusing to read about their Car Of Tomorrow that was introduced in 2007. It had 'cutting-edge' innovations like crumple zones, a rerouted exhaust designed not to fry the driver, a front splitter, a larger rear wing and - well - that's it really. It still uses pushrod engines and with the exception of a couple of courses like Watkins Glen, they all still drive in left-handed circles.
Those design features would have been the Car Of Tomorrow in the late 70's. Most other motorsports have had all of those features and dozens more true technical innovations for decades. So from this should I conclude that NASCAR is a full 30 years behind the rest of the world when it comes to their 'technology' ? I know it was only fairly recently that they decided the drivers would fare better in crashes if the circuits had tyre walls and impact barriers rather than three metres of impenetrable concrete to stop wayward cars.
Chris - www.carbibles.com
Throughout the rest of this website you'll find in-depth articles describing in intricate detail how everything automotive works. On this page, I've simplified all that knowledge into a series of basic car maintenance tips, subdivided by category. Some tips have simple explanations right here whilst others link back to the articles in the rest of the site. If you can't find what you're looking for, try the search button at the end of the top menu. If you still can't find what you're looking for, or have a suggestion for something else I should cover, contact me using the contact button on the top menu bar.
Wheels and tyres
Rotate your tyres!
check your tyre pressureEvery 5,000 miles or 8,000km, rotate your tyres. arrow Tyre rotation.
Clean brake dust off regularly
Brake dust contains all sorts of nasty stuff. If you leave it too long, the combination of road grime, moisture and heat from your brakes will bake it on to your wheels. Brake dust normally clings to wheels with static electricity so a damp sponge and clean cold water is the best way to get it off.
Check your tyre pressures
Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy, handling and comfort. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. arrow Checking your tyre pressure.
Check your tread depth
Bald, slick tyres might be good for motor racing but they're no good on the road. Most tyres come with tread wear bars built into them now - find one, examine it and if your tread is too low, replace your tyres. Four new tyres might seem expensive but they're cheaper than a fine or an accident. arrow Tread wear bars.
Engine
Check your belts
At the front of your engine there will be a series of rubber drive belts that loop around various pulleys, driving everything from the alternator to the a/c compressor. Rubber perishes, more so in extreme conditions like those found in an operating engine bay. Get your timing belt and accessory drive belt checked every 25,000 miles, preferably replacing it every 50,000 miles. See the Fuel and Engine bible for information on interference engines and why checking your timing belts is a necessity, not a luxury: arrow Interference engines
Fuel Economy
Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy very noticeably. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. arrow Checking your tyre pressures
Checking your oil level
This is something everyone can do - it's quick and easy and it'll tell you if your engine needs oil. If the oil is too high or too low, it can cause trouble for your engine. To check the oil, park on level ground and wait until the engine has cooled down after driving, then locate the dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean, then push it all the way back in until the top of it is seated properly in the dip tube again. Wait a moment then pull it out again. Check the level of the oil. If it's between the high and low marks, you're fine. (If it's too low, add a little.) The high and low marks can be denoted by two dots, an "H" and "L" or a shaded area on the dipstick. The photos below show a Honda dipstick which has the two dots. Why not just read the level first time around? The first time you pull the dipstick out, it will have oil all over it and it will be difficult to tell where the level is. That's why you need to wipe it on a rag to get a clean dipstick, then dip it back into the oil to get a good reading. More information on why you should check your oil level is here arrow Checking your oil level.
check your oil level
Checking your coolant level
Again, something everyone can do. The coolant is the other thing your engine cannot go without. Every engine is different but if you check your handbook you should find where the coolant reservoir is. It will normally be bolted to one side of the engine bay or the other, and be a white semi-transparent bottle. Wait until your engine is cool and take a look at it - the outside should have 'low' and 'high' markings on it and the level of coolant inside should be between the two.
Do not take the radiator cap off to check coolant levels. If the coolant system is still hot then it is still under pressure and the pressure release will burn you. arrow Engine cooling systems.
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Fuel / gas
Will higher octane or premium fuel give me better gas mileage and/or more power?
No. Sportier cars have higher compression engines which generate more power and require higher octane fuel to prevent detonation. That's where the myth of "premium = more power" came from. If your handbook says "regular", use regular. See octane and power for more information.
Electrical
Disconnecting and reconnecting your battery
negative battery terminalIf you're going to do any work on your car involving the electrical system, disconnect the battery first. To do this, loosen the connector for the negative/ground terminal first, and wiggle the terminal cap off. Use a wire-tie or similar to tie the cable back out of the way. If you need to take the battery out, you can now take off the positive connector.
Why negative then positive? If you disconnect the positive side of the battery first, the negative side is still connected to the entire car. If you drop a tool and it lands on the positive battery terminal and touches anything else on the car, you'll have an electrical short. By disconnecting the negative first, you're cutting off the return path for the current. Now, if a tool drops on to either of the battery terminals, it doesn't matter if it touches part of the chassis or not - there's no continuous path for the electrical current.
Reconnecting your battery. Connect the positive terminal first, and the negative second - the reverse of removal, and for the same reasons. When you slip the negative connector on, there will be a spark as it gets close and makes contact with the negative battery terminal. Don't be afraid of this - it's nothing to worry about. Make sure the terminal caps are done up nice and tight.
Check your battery terminals
Most modern cars run on a 12 volt negative ground electrical system. If your battery terminals or contacts aren't clean, you're making it more difficult for the current to pass around the electrical system. Remove the terminal caps as described above and clean each contact post with a wire brush to get a nice clean metal contact surface. Do the same to the terminal caps, then reattach them as described above.
Lights
One indicator or blinker is flashing faster than the other
negative battery terminalWhen you indicate one way and the blinker flashes quicker than when you indicate the other way, it means one of the bulbs has blown. An auto parts store will be able to tell you what sort of bulb you need to replace it with and your manual should show you how to get at the indicator bulbs - they're different on every car.
Don't touch the glass when changing headlight bulbs
Most headlight bulbs now are filled with halogen and have special coatings on the outside of the glass. If you pick the bulb up by the glass with your fingers, you will leave trace amounts of oil and grease on the glass. When the bulb is used, that area of the glass will get hotter than the rest and it will eventually cause the bulb to crack. When changing headlight bulbs, only hold the metal bulb holder at the base, or make sure you're wearing rubber surgical / mechanic's gloves (clean ones) if you're touching the glass.
Dash / instrument warning lights
check engine light
The check engine light.
Every new car now comes with OBD-II - On Board Diagnostics 2. This is a fault-registering system connected to sensors all over the car, engine, fuel and emissions system. When the check engine light comes on, it can mean many things. There are something like 4,000 unique OBD2 codes that can be stored. Handheld OBD2 diagnostic tools can be plugged in to the OBD2 port which is normally under the dash on the driver's side. These tools can read out the fault code and/or reset the system to contain no codes. Codes are split into two categories - historical/inactive, and active. The historical codes are lists of things that have been detected in the past but are no longer an issue, whilst the active codes are things that are a problem right now. Codes are subdivided into B-codes (body), C-codes (chassis) and the biggest list of all - P-codes (powertrain).
P0440 OBD-II code. This is the most common code you'll find and it's the first thing you should check. P0440 is the code for Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction which covers a multitude of sins. The one thing it covers that you can check is your gas cap (petrol cap). Most new cars have a pressurised fuel system and vapour recovery loop. If you've filled up with petrol and not twisted the gas cap until it clicks, you've not sealed the fuel system. It won't pressurise and the OBD2 system will log a P0440 code. In fact, on a lot of cars, that code is so common they'll actually have some way of telling you to check the gas cap. In the Honda Element, for example, if a P0440 code is logged, the dash scrolls "CHECK GAS CAP" across the odometer display. So if you get a check engine light, check the gas cap first and see if the light goes off. Note : even if the light does go off, the code will likely still be stored in the OBD system and will show up next time it is checked.
It wasn't the gas cap. If tightening the gas cap didn't do it, you'll need to find someone with an OBD2 diagnostics tool or reader. Some garages will charge you just for plugging the device in and reading the code. If they do, walk away. They're ripping you off. Better to find a garage or mechanic that will read the code and actually give you a diagnosis rather than just making you pay to find out a number. Smaller garages and local mechanics will normally do this for you for a small fee, and being independent, the diagnosis won't be predicated on you buying some expensive parts from a corporate chain.
If you're a do-it-yourself type used to working from shop manuals, then a lot of places that will give you the diagnostic code for free. In America specifically, the Schuck's chain do free diagnostics checks (Checker, Kragen, Murray's, Advance) as well as AutoZone. Drop in - don't phone up and ask. A lot of times if you phone up they'll tell you it's $40. If you just turn up, more often than not they'll do it for nothing. In the UK I'm not sure who does - if you know, drop me a line. The alternative, if you're into maintaining your own vehicles, is to buy a reader and do it yourself.
service engine light
The service engine light / Maint Reqd light.
This might indicate "Service", "Service Engine" or "Maint Reqd". It's an indicator that you're getting close to a scheduled maintenance interval. On some cars it's as simple as counting miles before it comes on, whilst on others it maps engine temperatures, oil temperatures, air temperatures and other indicators of probable stress to tell you when it might be time for new oil or a service. In most cars this can be overridden or reset by you, the owner. Your handbook will tell you if this is the case. If you take your car for a service, the garage should reset it for you.
Typically this light will come on when you start your car, and then turn off again as part of the self-check. If it stays on for 10 seconds then turns off, it normally means you're within 500 miles of needing a service. If it flashes for 10 seconds, it normally means you've exceeded a recommended service interval.
battery warning light
The electrical fault light.
This warning light is different in every car but normally it looks like a picture of a battery, similar to the picture on the left here. You'll see it come on and go off when you start your engine as part of the car's self-test, but if this light comes on and stays on, it means the electrical charging system is no longer working properly. Think of it like a cellphone battery. If the cellphone is plugged into the charger, you can use it indefinitely, but when you disconnect it from the charger, there's a limited amount of time before your battery runs out. It's exactly the same in your car, only bigger. Every car has an alternator - the charger - and a 12v battery used to supply power to the electrical system. If the alternator becomes faulty or the drive belt to it snaps, then it will not be able to do its job. The longer you drive, the more your car will use up the remaining juice in the battery and eventually the engine will die. This almost always requires a new or refurbished alternator.
brake warning light
Brake warning light 1
Most cars nowadays have a brake warning light on the dash. Its purpose is to alert you that something is wrong in the braking system somewhere. If it comes on, check your owner's manual to find out its meaning. Unlike the single-purpose ABS warning light, the brake warning light doesn't have a standard meaning; it could be used for multiple purposes. For example, the same light may be used to show that the hand brake (parking brake for the Americans amongst you) is on. If that's the case and you're driving, you ought to have noticed the smell of burning brake dust by now. The light can also indicate that the fluid in the master cylinder is low. Each manufacturer has a different use and standard for this light. Which is nice. Because it would be such a drag if the same indicator meant the same thing in every vehicle.
brake warning light
Brake warning light 2
If you've got an ABS-equipped car, you also have a second light - the ABS light. If it comes on, get it seen to as soon as possible. It means the ABS computer has diagnosed that something is amiss in the system. It could be something as simple as dirt in one of the sensors, or something as costly as an entire ABS unit replacement. Either way, if that light is on, then you, my friend, have got 1970's brakes. It's important to note that this light normally comes on when you start the car and then switches off a few seconds later. If it stays on, blinks, throbs, flashes or in any other way draws your attention to itself, take note. It's not doing it just to please itself.
coolant warning light
This is normally the coolant level warning light. If this comes on it means that the level of coolant in your radiator is low and needs topping up. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT! The coolant system is pressurised and it could easily release pressure and spray you with boiling coolant. Do it when the engine is cold. Top up the system with either a pre-mixed coolant bought from a shop, or with distilled water. Don't use tap water - the mineral deposits in it boil out in the cooling system and calcium gets depositted around the inside of the radiator making it less efficient (which will eventually cause it to fail). It's always best to use pre-mixed coolant, or to mix your own rather than using neat water. The coolant mixture behaves as an antifreeze in winter as well as a corrosion-inhibitor to stop your engine rusting from the inside out.
oil pressure warning light
Oil warning light
Typically this light will come on if your oil pressure is too low. Low oil pressure is serious and if you continue to drive with this light on, eventually your engine will die. Low oil pressure can be caused by a failed oil pump, a blocked oil filter or strainer in the sump, or by low oil levels - for example if your engine is burning oil. Either way, you need to get it fixed, and fast. Low oil pressure is A Bad Thing and your engine won't thank you for leaving this problem untreated.
Driving and Car Maintenance
Car Maintenance Checklist: Use the right grade of motor oil for your car. Keep tires properly inflated and aligned. Get regular tune-ups and maintenance checks. Replace clogged air filters. Check out www.fueleconomy.gov.
Transportation accounts for 67% of U.S. oil use—mainly in the form of gasoline. Luckily, there are plenty of ways to improve gas mileage.
Driving Tips
* Idling gets you 0 miles per gallon. The best way to warm up a vehicle is to drive it. No more than 30 seconds of idling on winter days is needed. Anything more simply wastes fuel and increases emissions.
* Aggressive driving (speeding, rapid acceleration, and hard braking) wastes gas. It can lower your highway gas mileage 33% and city mileage 5%.
* Avoid high speeds. Above 60 mph, gas mileage drops rapidly.
* Clear out your car; extra weight decreases gas mileage by 1% to 2% for every 100 pounds.
* Reduce drag by placing items inside the car or trunk rather than on roof racks. A roof rack or carrier provides additional cargo space and may allow you to buy a smaller car. However, a loaded roof rack can decrease your fuel economy by 5% or more.
* Check into telecommuting, carpooling and public transit to cut mileage and car maintenance costs.
Car Maintenance Tips
* Use the grade of motor oil recommended by your car's manufacturer. Using a different motor oil can lower your gasoline mileage by 1% to 2%.
* Keep tires properly inflated and aligned to improve your gasoline mileage by around 3.3%.
* Get regular engine tune-ups and car maintenance checks to avoid fuel economy problems due to worn spark plugs, dragging brakes, low transmission fluid, or transmission problems.
* Replace clogged air filters to improve gas mileage by as much as 10% and protect your engine.
* Combine errands into one trip. Several short trips, each one taken from a cold start, can use twice as much fuel as one trip covering the same distance when the engine is warm.
Long-Term Savings Tip
* Consider buying a highly fuel-efficient vehicle. A fuel- efficient vehicle, a hybrid vehicle, or an alternative fuel vehicle could save you a lot at the gas pump and help the environment. See the Fuel Economy Guide for more on buying a new fuel-efficient car or truck.
Financial Tips
How to Save Money : Preventative Car Maintenance
With the average car on the road today being more than 9 years old, it's notable that the average car is likely not covered under a service warranty. As such, keeping your car well maintained makes good financial sense because you'll need to cover any major repairs yourself. With the proper care and attention, a vehicle can last many years past its warranty, saving you and your household budget from these costly repairs.
Preventive car maintenance is nothing to be afraid of. Even if your knowledge of auto mechanics is limited, there are many fundamental things you can do to help avoid problems in the future. Let's review a list of tips compiled by the professionals at Credit Counselors:
* Get into the habit of bringing your car in for all of the regular recommended maintenance, as listed in your owner's manual. True, these services aren't free. But neglecting them is "penny-wise, pound foolish."
* You can improve your car's gas mileage somewhat through proper tire care. By ensuring that they're inflated to the right pressure, you'll optimize their performance. Also important to the life of your tires are wheel alignments, tire rotation, and tire balancing. Many of these services are offered quite affordably (often run as specials) by local oil change shops.
* Are you prepared in case of a flat tire? We recommend carrying a spare tire and the equipment necessary to change a tire at all times. You should also check to see that your spare tire is in decent shape. Flat tires can often be fixed relatively inexpensively instead of discarded completely.
* The engine is your car's most vital element and can bring about the most costly repairs of all. Take care of your engine by seeking professional advice when you see or hear signs of trouble (poor performance, engine noises, indicator lights going on, temperature gauges showing trouble, etc.). When caught early, chances are the repairs will be cheaper.
* Along those lines, one of the most important routine maintenance measures of all is to change your oil regularly. Some manufacturers recommend an oil and filter change every 3,000 miles. Others push that up to every 7,500 miles. Check your owner's manual. (Often, the recommended mileage intervals vary according to how you drive your car – i.e. mostly city driving vs. mostly highway driving.)
* Also consult your owner's manual for recommendations on radiator flushes, as well as brake, power steering, and transmission fluid changes.
* Without filters, your engine could become clogged and contaminated over time. Make sure to change your air filter, breather element, cabin filter, and fuel filter according to your car's maintenance schedule.
* Periodically inspect your hoses and belts, as damage to these components can lead to more serious problems.
* Visibility is of paramount importance to your safety. So, change your wipers annually.
* When headlamps, turning signals, or other lights burn out, most of these are easily replaced on your own (saving you further service fees).
* Keeping your car clean inside and out improves its resale value. Regular washings also protect your car's paint job, maintaining its resale value.
* Find a mechanic you can trust. When you do need repairs, you'll have the peace of mind that they'll be done properly and for a fair price (communicated to you in advance of the repair work). If friends or family have no recommendations, try your local Better Business Bureau.
* Retain your auto-related receipts. Not only will they help you schedule timely preventive maintenance, but they provide evidence of service in the event of a warranty dispute.
* Don't impulsively purchase a new car if your current one is aging. Occasional repair bills are often less costly in the long run than a monthly payment of several hundred dollars.
Auto ownership is something that should be worked into your household budget whether you have a new car under warranty or an older vehicle. The key is to make the most of your investment. If you keep your car running well, it'll pay you back with fewer expensive repairs.
MOTORING GUIDE - Car Maintenance
Basic car maintenance is something every car owner should know. Being able to check the engine oil, the pressure of the tyres and the overall condition of the brakes can save you money, and you won't need to rely on the skills of a mechanic to do everything. All you will need is some basic tools to do the job and of course some time!
Tyres
It's dangerous to drive on tyres that are in poor condition or incorrectly inflated. There's a legal minimum tread depth - crash while driving on illegal tyres and you'll be in trouble with the police and your insurance company.
Pressure
* Recommended pressure figures are for cold tyres, so you'll get a falsely high reading if you check them after driving for more than a few minutes. Always check tyre pressures cold.
* Pressure is measured in pounds per square inch (psi) and the right amounts for your car should be listed in your owner's manual. It's common for different amounts to apply to the front and rear tyres.
* If the amount on the pressure gauge is below that mentioned in your owner's manual, you will need to inflate the tyre. To do this, connect a pump or an air line on a garage forecourt and fill until the right amount is shown on the pressure gauge.
* If you put too much air into the tyre, depress the pin in the centre of the valve to let some out.
* Don't forget the pressure of your spare wheel. Your owner's manual should tell you the correct pressure.
Engine oil
If your engine doesn't have the right amount of oil, it could be seriously damaged, sometimes beyond repair.
Checking
* Check the level at least once a fortnight, if possible when the engine is cold and the car is on a level surface.
* The dipstick usually sticks out from one side of the engine. On more modern cars it may have a coloured handle: usually red, orange or yellow.
* Pull the dipstick out and wipe it clean with a rag. Return it to the full extent, pull it out again and check that the oil mark is between the upper and lower limits on the dipstick.
Topping up
* Make sure you use the right oil, and the same as what's currently in the engine. Your owner's manual will contain these details.
* Find the oil filler cap - it's usually on the top of the engine and marked 'oil'. Unscrew this carefully and place to one side. Pour in a small amount of new oil and recheck the level with the dipstick. Repeat until the level is about halfway between the maximum and minimum marks on the dipstick.
* Oil is usually replaced at every service inspection of your car. This is usually once a year or at a maximum of 10,000 miles. Refer to the owners' manual for details.
Exhaust
If the engine sounds rough or you can hear a blowing sound, the exhaust may have a leak. If so, have it checked.
The two emissions tested in the MOT are carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons (HC). If your car fails on either of these tests you will need to get the problem solved by an authorised service centre.
Shock absorbers
Push down on each corner of the car and then release. If the shock absorbers are working, the corner of the vehicle will quickly settle into its normal position. If it bounces, the shock absorber at that corner will need to be replaced.
Rust
During the MOT your entire car will be examined for rust, especially in structural areas.
Brakes
Pull on the handbrake. If it takes more than a few clicks before it will hold the car on a hill, the cable or rear calipers/drums need by an authorised service centre.
Check that there is no sign of brake fluid in the footwell, whether on the pedal, floor or carpets. This indicates a leakage.
Pump the brake until the pressure builds up and the pedal becomes rigid. Hold your foot on the pedal, feeling for any loss in pressure. If the pedal starts to give way, there is a leak in the system.
* Likewise if there is a great deal of pedal movement before the brakes begin to bite, the brakes need adjusting.
* If the pedal feels spongy and braking lacks sharpness, this indicates air in the system. A home brake bleed kit can cure this.
Brakes are crucially important for safety, of course, but complicated to fix. If there's a problem, avoid using your car until an authorised service centre can perform repairs and adjustments. Ask the service centre to check the overall condition of the braking system.
Long-term storage
If your car is going to be left unused for an extended time, there are some simple measures to avoid unnecessary damage:
* If it's winter, make sure that there is sufficient anti-freeze in the cooling system.
* Check that your battery is charged. Battery chargers are not expensive and it is worth giving it a boost. If you're going to be away for a long time (and you aren't using an immobiliser/alarm) disconnect the earth strap to prevent the battery losing charge
* Remove all valuables.
* Use a car cover to protect it from rain, dust and the habits of birds.
* Fit a visible steering lock.
Theft prevention
Hundreds of thousands of cars are stolen or broken into each year. There are some simple steps you can take to make sure you're not the next victim:
* Make sure you keep valuables out of sight when your car is unattended.
* Always close and lock doors, boot and sunroof. If it hasn't already got one, fit an alarm and immobiliser.
* Have the windows and windscreen etched with your car's numberplate.
* Try to leave your car in the most visible location, especially if it's staying there overnight.
* If your car is fitted with alloy wheels, replace one nut on each wheel with a locking version that needs a special adapter to remove.
* If the driver's view forward is obscured in any way by windscreen damage, it will need to be repaired or replaced - likewise, if wiper movement is interrupted.
* Your rear-view mirror should be secure and capable of being adjusted.
* Your front and rear numberplates must be in good condition, securely fitted and easily read.
* Under the bonnet there should be a small metal plate bearing the vehicle identification number (VIN). Make sure it's visible.
Summary
Taking care of your car can be a rewarding experience in more than one way, not only will you have the satisfaction of being able to fix things yourself, but you can also take pride in the knowledge you don't have to pay anyone to do it. If you feel you are out of your depth however, do not hesitate to take your car to your local service centre where they can check that your car is safe to go on the road. There are some good books on car maintenance available, but if you prefer the more practical approach enquire at your local schools that may offer evening classes.
Additional Information
Knowing some basic car maintenance can save you a lot of money with motoring costs. Some website that offer useful advice and guidance are:
* Compare Car Insurance
* Hints and Things
* SmartSense
* Auto Trader
Five Simple Ways to Save Money on Gas
You may wonder why you spend hundreds of dollars for your super fast cars. You may get all crazy and blame society for the oil price hike just because your fast cars are making you broke.
Don’t blame the society just yet. There are several simple ways of saving money on gasoline. You don’t even have to buy additional equipments. All you have to do is follow these five simple routines.
1) Replace the fancy gasoline with low-octane fuel
In filling up your new fast car, make sure to buy the lowest grade of gasoline. However, choose the most appropriate gas for your supercar automobile. Knowing which fuel works best for your fast cool car is always located in your owner’s manual. Look it up.
Filling up your car with premium gasoline, even if it can be filled with low-octane fuel, is just a waste of money. Besides, not buying the high-octane gasoline won’t boost your fast car’s performance, anyway.
2) Remember to tighten the gas cap
Gas naturally evaporates from your fast new car when the gas tank has an escape. According to the statistics, over 145 million gallons of gas evaporate yearly due to missing, damaged and loose gas caps. Why be one of those careless fast car owners? Tighten those gas caps now.
3) Air conditioning and shade
During summer, the intense sun can evaporate fuel instantly and make the insides of your hot fast car burn your skin up. For this reason, parking your car in the shade can be an effective gas-saving routine.
Besides, once you’ve parked your new fast car in a shady place, using the gas-hogging air conditioning can be counted out. Just remember that air conditioning can drag your car’s fuel economy by 10 to 20 percent.
However, when air conditioning is necessary, cool your car down by opening the windows, vents and sunroof. Turning on the air conditioning at full blast once you go into your super fast car will definitely waste your money and gas.
4) Engine Care
A fast car that is out of tune or failed an emission test can drag your gas mileage down to up to 4 percent. Regular tune-ups as well as spark plug and air filter replacements can provide your car with over 30 percent of fuel efficiency.
5) Fast Cars with good mileage
Buying cars with a good mileage is probably the most important tip in saving money on gas. To know which new fast car provides good gas mileage, check with an unbiased car dealer.
Believe it or not, these five simple routines can stretch up your gas dollar. Try it now and let it become your daily habit.
Basic car maintenance for new fast car owners
Buying a new fast car is like having a newborn baby. It requires proper care and maintenance. However, remember that each part is as fragile as a baby is. If you’re unfamiliar with the parts, familiarize yourself with your super fast car’s parts by going through the owner’s manual.
To get the most out of your hot fast car, make sure to follow these preventive maintenance measures.
1) Air Conditioning
A functioning air conditioner is important for daily comfort, especially during hot weather and summer season. When the air conditioning of your fast car gives out undesired cooling, it might be due to low refrigerant, a dirty condenser, air and moisture contamination or a mechanical problem.
If you have no clue on fixing any of these problems, check with a competent air conditioning technician to pinpoint and fix the air conditioner.
2) Brakes
The brakes of your fast new car are important due to safety reasons.
For instance, low brake fluid level can cause soft brake pedals. Wore down brake lining could cause the pedal to go all the way down. Dirty brake pads can cause the brakes to squeak. Insufficient hydraulic pressure or loose brake clearance can cause the brakes to pull your fast car to one side.
Having your brakes checked can prevent these situations and reduce the risks of accidents caused by brake malfunctions.
3) Engine and electrical system
Your super fast car’s electrical system includes the battery, starter, fuses and alternator. Proper maintenance of all the electrical system can avoid unwanted electrical faults.
Another important thing to consider is engine care. Always remember that the life and performance of your car engine lies on the engine oil. The oil should be checked regularly and calibrated to prevent engine breakdown. Also, replace the engine oil at recommended intervals.
4) Cooling System
When the engine of your cool fast car overheats, it is probably because the cooling system is ineffective. The cooling system should be regularly checked, especially during summer season. Make sure to give special attention to the pressure cap, hoses and fan belt. In order to protect your car from malfunctions during summer, get the cooling system serviced even before the start of summer.
Preventive maintenance is an important task of supercar automobile owners. If you make it your routine, it could prolong the life of your newfound baby. Following these basic car maintenance tips could help your new fast car deliver optimum performance. It can also reduce the risk of an unexpected car breakdown.
How to Keep your Car Smelling Clean
A brand-new smelling fast car does not necessarily mean it’s clean. In fact, those smell from new fast cars come from unsettled molecules of VOCs (volatile organic compounds) such as rubber or plastic materials and cleaning solvents.
According to a study in Australia, there are over 30 organic compounds, some toxic, that are found floating in fast new cars.
In order to counter these chemicals, drive with an open window for the first four to six months of cruising with your new fast car.
Always remember that your supercar automobile is a refuge of all smoke, bacteria, exhaust fumes and various airborne contaminants. A clean smell can be disrupted by either liquid and solid wastes or an automotive problem.
Here is a list of several smells that may be caused by internal problems of your hot fast car.
1) EXHAUST FUMES.
When your fast cars smells like exhaust fumes, it can be a sign of leaks in the exhaust system, including in the muffler, exhaust manifold, tailpipe and exhaust pipes. It can also be due to worn seal on the rear door or hatchback.
Once you smell this, make sure to take action immediately. Exhausts can be deadly due to carbon monoxide. During these occasions, it is best for your super fast car to be serviced by a mechanic or muffler.
2) GAS
If your fast car smells like raw gas, it could signify leakage in the tailpipe, muffler, exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. It can also be due to worn seal on rear door or hatchback.
When this happens, check if the gas cap is loose or misplaced. If the smell persists, bring your new fast car to the mechanic right away.
3) PLASTIC
The smell of burning plastic inside your super fast car could be caused by any kind of plastic lying on the road that has been stuck to the hot exhaust located beneath the car. Although this can be difficult to get rid off, it is best to crawl under the car and scrape the plastic manually.
4) OIL
Smelling oil leakage could cause light smoke and a very foul smell. This is usually caused by an oil engine leakage that spills into the exhaust manifold and begins to be burnt.
Preventive oil maintenance is the best way to avoid this problem. However, if you’re in this kind of situation, bring your new fast car to the mechanic to be fixed.
A foul smell on your fast car can mean more than it is. It can damage your engine or your tires and cause a car breakdown. Be cautious about these smells to prevent further damage of your fast new car. Contact a mechanic right away if an unusual smells brings about.
Few basic car maintenance tips
• Regular oil changes are very important to keep your engine in a good shape.
• Wash your car regularly, wax it once in a while to keep the car body shiny and free from corrosion.
• Take care of any minor concerns as soon as you can, so it won't cause serious problems and an expensive repair later
• Use only original parts
• How to check the engine oil
• Engine coolant
• Automatic transmission fluid
• Tires
• CV-joint boots
• Taking care of small problems
• Regular inspection
• Print Maintenance Reminder
How to check the engine oil
Place your car at the level spot. Stop the engine. Wait for a while to let the engine oil to pour down to the oil pan. Pull the engine oil dipstick. If you don't know where is the engine oil dipstick, check your owner's manual, usually it has a bright handle saying "engine oil".
Wipe it off with a clean rag or tissue. Then insert it back all the way down into its place.
Now, pull the dipstick again and check the oil level. Normally it should be at "FULL" mark. For example, here you can see that it's a bit lower. It's not a big problem yet, but it's better to top it up. Check the oil condition: If it's way too black, it's definitely time to change it. If it's slightly-brown, it's O.K. If it's dark-brown, but still transparent, it's admissible but it's better to change it soon.
If it's white (coffee with milk color) it means the engine coolant mixes with the engine oil because of some internal engine problem, for example, blown head gasket - have your car inspected.
How to top up the engine oil:
It would be better to add the same type and brand of the engine oil as you already have in the engine. Add a little amount of the oil as it's shown in the image. Wait for a minute to let the oil to pour down. Check the oil level again with the dipstick. If it's still low, add some more. But don't overfill it. Don't forget to install the dipstick back and close the oil filler cap when you finished.
How to check automatic transmission fluid.
Place your car at a level surface and engage the parking brake. Start the engine. Set transmission shifter in "P" (Park) position, and let the engine idle (on some cars this procedure may be different, check the owners' manual for details). Pull the transmission dipstick. Check your owners manual to find where transmission dipstick is located in your car.
Wipe it off with a clean lint free rag. Then insert it back carefully all the way down into its place.
Pull again and check the fluid level. If the engine is cold, it should be within "COLD" marks. If the car was driven and is fully warmed up, the level should be at the upper end of the "HOT" mark. If it's just a little bit lower I wouldn't worry about it. Otherwise I'd top it up. Check the fluid condition also: If it's too black and dirty with burnt smell - your transmission is not going to last. Normally it should be clean and transparent, as in the image. The new fluid comes red. Over the time it becomes brownish. If it is brown, check your owner's manual, may be it's time to change it. Some manufacturers require to change the transmission fluid at 30,000 or 50,000 miles others specify that you never have to change it - check what's your car owner's manual says.
How to top up the transmission fluid:
It's very important to use only specified transmission fluid - check your owners manual or simply visit your local dealer, they alway have proper transmission fluid in stock. Incorrect transmission fluid can even destroy the transmission. Add a small amount of the fluid through the dipstick pipe as shown in the image. Wait for a few minutes - let the fluid to flow down. Recheck the level again. Do not overfill, it also may cause problems with your transmission.
Engine coolant
Low coolant level will cause engine overheating, which may cause serious damage to the engine.
How to check the engine coolant level:
The coolant level should be between "LOW" and "FULL" marks in the coolant overflow tank as in the picture. If it's lower, top it up. If there is no coolant in overflow tank or you have to top it up quite often, have your car inspected in the garage, possibly there is a coolant leak.
Never open the radiator or coolant overflow tank when the engine is hot!
When engine temperature is reduced (few minutes after the engine has been turned off) , simply add a coolant into the overflow tank to "FULL" mark.
Tires
Check the tire pressure regularly - at least once a month. If you don't have tire pressure gauge it's really worth to buy it. You can find recommended tire pressure in the owner's manual or on the tire pressure placard. The maximum pressure listed on tires is NOT the proper pressure! Refer to the owner's manual
Rotate tires at every second oil change - it will insure all tires wear equally. Feel vibration at cruising speed? - have your tires balanced. There is a safe limit of the tread wear. If the tire is worn below this limit it's unsafe to drive. Refer to the result of mechanical inspection. Uneven tire wear indicates alignment problem.
Improper alignment causes increased tire and suspension components wear and poor handling. In worst case improper alignment may throw your car into a skid, especially on a wet road. If a car pulls aside, wanders or feels unstable on the road, have the alignment checked. Properly done alignment will make your car's ride a lot more enjoyable.
CV joint boots
CV joint boot is OK
Most of modern vehicles are Front-Wheel-Drive, and they all have CV-joints (Constant Velocity joint) used to transfer the engine torque to the front wheels. The CV-joint is greased inside and sealed by a rubber boot that unfortunately, tend to break sometimes. If the CV-joint boot breaks, the grease comes out, the dirt and water comes in and the whole axle unit may become inoperative in a short period of time. CV-joint located on the internal side of each of the front wheels. You can check CV-joint boots visually looking inside the front wheel arch from the front of the car with the wheel turned outside. The boot should be dry. If it's broken you will see a grease splashed all over the area. If the boot is broken, it needs to be replaced. If not replaced in time, whole axle shaft will need to be replaced which will cost you few hundred bucks more than just replacing the boot.
Broken CV joint boot
Taking care of small concerns in time may save you a lot more
As soon as you feel there is something wrong with your car like any kind of irregular noise, vibration, shimmer, or you note some leak or any warning light comes on while driving or anything that seems to be irregular - have your car inspected at a dealer or a garage as soon as you can - it might be unsafe to drive. It's definitely better to check any small problem before it will cause something serious.
Regular mechanical inspection
For your safety, I recommend to have your car inspected regularly, at least once a year, by a mechanic. I mean not just visual inspection by one of the fast lube places, but a mechanic that can lift your car and check major components such as brakes, suspension, etc., while having your tires rotated, for example. This is because many components (e.g ball joints), can not be inspected visually.
DRIVERS SHOULD KNOW
Ten Things All Car & Truck Drivers Should Know About Motorcycles
1. There are a lot more cars and trucks than motorcycles on the road, and some drivers don't "recognize" a motorcycle; they ignore it (usually unintentionally). Look for motorcycles, especially when checking traffic at an intersection.
2. Because of its small size, a motorcycle may look farther away than it is. It may also be difficult to judge a motorcycle's speed. When checking traffic to turn at an intersection or into (or out of) a driveway, predict a motorcycle is closer than it looks.
3. Because of its small size, a motorcycle can be easily hidden in a car's blind spots (door/roof pillars) or masked by objects or backgrounds outside a car (bushes, fences, bridges, etc.). Take an extra moment to thoroughly check traffic, whether you're changing lanes or turning at intersections.
4. Because of its small size, a motorcycle may seem to be moving faster than it really is. Don't assume all motorcycles are speed demons.
5. Motorcyclists often slow by downshifting or merely rolling off the throttle, thus not activating the brake light. Allow more following distance, say 3 or 4 seconds. At intersections, predict a motorcyclist may slow down without visual warning.
6. Turn signals on a motorcycle usually are not self-canceling, thus some riders, (especially beginners) sometimes forget to turn them off after a turn or lane change. Make sure a motorcycle's signal is for real.
7. Motorcyclists often adjust position within a lane to be seen more easily and to minimize the effects of road debris, passing vehicles, and wind. Understand that motorcyclists adjust lane position for a purpose, not to be reckless or show off or to allow you to share the lane with them.
8. Maneuverability is one of a motorcycle's better characteristics, especially at slower speeds and with good road conditions, but don't expect a motorcyclist to always be able to dodge out of the way.
9. Stopping distance for motorcycles is nearly the same as for cars, but slippery pavement makes stopping quickly difficult. Allow more following distance behind a motorcycle because it can't always stop "on a dime".
10. When a motorcycle is in motion, don't think of it as a motorcycle; think of it as a person.
Information provided by: Motorcycle Safety Foundation
Every driver knows how to put the key into the ignition and start the car in order to start driving. And every driver knows either how to slide the gearshift into D, or shift the car into first gear to start going. What every driver may not know is that there are several other very vital things that they should have in their car, in the trunk or the glove box, and that they should know the basic ways to use them in order to keep their car in good condition, and keep themselves and other drivers safe.
Jumper CablesThe first item every driver should keep handy is a tire gauge. This is perhaps the most inexpensive and most often overlooked item on the list. Checking the tire pressure is important for both gas mileage and for maintaining a safe amount of air in a car's tires to avoid a potentially very dangerous blowout. Next, every driver should have a set of jumper cables in their trunk, and know how to use them. It is not as simple as hooking them up to the battery's posts and getting going again, if the battery dies. Drivers must know the difference between the positive and negative posts and apply jumper cables properly to recharge the battery and prevent damage.
No matter the season, every driver should keep on hand at least half a bottle of windshield washer fluid. Whether it's winter and the driver is using a lot to de-ice windshields, or if it's just barely raining and the windshield is becoming difficult to see through, washer fluid is vital to safety and good viewing for drivers. In the winter, no driver should be without a can of de-icing spray, the kind of chemical spray on compound that can be applied to a frozen window or windshield to quickly clear it off for safe driving. Too often, drivers either rely on the mechanical defrosting system, which can be slow to heat, or they start driving with windows still opaque with frost and take a chance on harming themselves or others.
Duct tape is an item that is often maligned, but can become a lifesaver in a vehicle. It can be used to make a temporary repair to a hose that has become cracked. Duct tape can be used to secure windshield wipers that have become detached from the based, as long as they have not completely broken. It can also be used to secure minor parts that have become loose to prevent them from falling off a presenting a danger to other drivers. The next thing no driver should be without is a can of WD-40. It can serve many purposes, from de-icing frozen locks, to cleaning corroded battery posts if a car's battery is not dead, just weakened by posts covered in gunk. This little wonder chemical can also remove grease from hands and some clothing, if repairs at the side of the road become necessary.
Lastly, no driver should be without a set of basic hand tools. No mechanics set up is required here, just the basics like several sizes of wrenches and screwdrivers, as well as some strong cutting tools. With these seven items on hand, there should be no roadside emergency any driver can't deal with. These and a fully charged cell phone, just in case these items can't get the car back on the road again.
Five Things Every Driver Should Know about DUI
By Expert Author: Andy Taylor
Driving after drinking alcohol is not illegal. Driving while impaired or intoxicated is illegal. Every driver should know how to protect themselves from a false DUI conviction.
1. Cause to Stop The Police have to have a reason to stop you when you are driving. They mostly decide to stop you based on the way you are driving (doh). The signs they think show a DUI or DWI driver are many.
What they look for is erratic driving like unexplained speed changes, excessive movement within lanes or lane changing without indicating. Parking badly, having the appearance of not knowing where you are etc.
Unfortunately there could be, and often is, a perfectly acceptable reason for any and all of these ""signs"". A good DUI Lawyer can argue this in court for you.
2. Field Sobriey Testing These tests are NO indication of sobriety. In addition the officer who stops you has, in most cases, already decided that you are a DUI or DWI case. They only use these tests to confirm their suspicion.
I would fail these tests stone cold sober, most people would. They are only an indication of your ability to balance or count backwards or whatever.
You don't have to take these tests in most states, there is a free ebook available from the resource link below written by an experienced DUI Lawyer.
3. Blood Testing Blood testing is the most accurate and it is your right to ask for this to be done if you are stopped for DUI or DWI. You can even ask for your own doctor or hospital to do the testing. A DUI Lawyer will tell you what to do.
If you are unable to get your own doctor or hospital, you should ask for a sample of the blood taken so you can get your own, independent testing done.
4. Blood Alcohol Content The Breath Analysis Testing machines are only accurate when they have been regularly tested and aligned and used as directed. Your DUI Lawyer will get the calibration records to check.
Mostly the police do not use them as directed, you will be asked to ""keep blowing, keep blowing"" but that isn't the way they should be used. The air from the bottom of your lungs has a much higher concentration of alcohol then the air from the top or middle.
The Breath Analysis machine is calibrated for the middle concentration not the bottom so asking you to empty your lungs will give a false reading and will get you convicted of DUI or DWI even though you are below the legal limit.
5. Court Time If you are charged with DUI or DWI you will end up in court. Now the deck is really stacked against you if you dont have a good DUI Lawyer with you. If the police officer has rail roaded you, and over 30% of those in court have been, then the court will believe them rather than you 100% of the time.
Unless...you have an experienced DUI lawyer on your side. The cost of losing a DUI or DWI case will run out to $10,000 or more. If the lawyer costs $5,000 and reduces or eliminates the conviction you have reduced your costs and quite possibly got your life back.
tion OK, if you are reading this a bit late and have already been convicted of DUI or DWI what can you do now?
You need to find out how to get your life back on an even keel. you need to find out how to get your drivers license back, how to protect yourself when applying for a new job, how to get auto insurance at a reasonable price etc.
Here are the top 10 tips for drivers.
If you have trouble remembering which side of the car your fuel intake is have a look at the little pump in the fuel gauage. If the nozzle on the pump is on the right, then your fuel intake is on the right.
If you lock your keys in the car just phone home and get somone to press the unlock button on the spare fob against the phone. If your phone is on hands free and close enough to the car your doors will pop open. This should save a long round trip and a long wait for the spare to arrive.
10 Things that every driver should know!
Dipping the clutch as you start the engine means that the starter is not rotating the main gearbox driveshaft. This can help if your battery is low and will avoid causing the car to lurch forward if the last person to use it left it in gear.
Keeping the tire pressures high can save you (depending on your mileage) £100 ($200) per year in lower tire wear and wasted fuel consumption.
Use the airconditioning to warm the car up in winter as this is faster than waiting for the heat from the engine to kick in. Using the aircon in winter will also help to keep the compressor in good condition and prevent it from siezing up.
If you get white car wax on plastic trim you can remove it using a pencil eraser or peanut butter. Spread on and lick it off or just wipe it off, the TorqueCars member who came up with that little jem suggests that you avoid the cruncy peanut butter.
If your car is stuck in mud remember to keep the speed low. The more your wheels spin the deeper you will get stuck. Ride the clutch and try to rock the car backwards and forwards. The rocking motion will usually be enough to get you free unless you have dug right in. If it is bad get one of your car mats and place this on the ground, rubber side up. Using a very slow engine speed and riding the clutch try to rock the car forwards and backwards.
If your brakes fail, use a lower gear and engine braking to slow up the car. The as the speed drops pump the hand brake on and off until you reach a stop. On motorways when you are dealing with faster speeds and may not have the distance required use a barrier and push the nose of the car into the barrier at a shallow angle.
If your engine cuts out and you need to move forward, for example you are on railway crossing use the starter motor. Put the car in gear and turn on the starter motor. If your battery is in good condition there should be just enough to get you out of harms way. (Expect to replace the starter motor though!)
If your clutch goes completely you can change gear if you match the engine/gearbox speed carefully. Moving the gearstick to netural and then slipping it into gear will usually work. The higher the gear the easier this is to pull off without crunching the gearbox. This way, as long as you keep the car moving you should be able to get the car to a garage.
These tips were gleaned from our members - to get more tips and keep up to date use our forum - registration is completely free. If you have a tip to pass on please use the feedback form below or better still - drop us a line in the forum!
1. There are a lot more cars and trucks than motorcycles on the road, and some drivers don't "recognize" a motorcycle; they ignore it (usually unintentionally). Look for motorcycles, especially when checking traffic at an intersection.
2. Because of its small size, a motorcycle may look farther away than it is. It may also be difficult to judge a motorcycle's speed. When checking traffic to turn at an intersection or into (or out of) a driveway, predict a motorcycle is closer than it looks.
3. Because of its small size, a motorcycle can be easily hidden in a car's blind spots (door/roof pillars) or masked by objects or backgrounds outside a car (bushes, fences, bridges, etc.). Take an extra moment to thoroughly check traffic, whether you're changing lanes or turning at intersections.
4. Because of its small size, a motorcycle may seem to be moving faster than it really is. Don't assume all motorcycles are speed demons.
5. Motorcyclists often slow by downshifting or merely rolling off the throttle, thus not activating the brake light. Allow more following distance, say 3 or 4 seconds. At intersections, predict a motorcyclist may slow down without visual warning.
6. Turn signals on a motorcycle usually are not self-canceling, thus some riders, (especially beginners) sometimes forget to turn them off after a turn or lane change. Make sure a motorcycle's signal is for real.
7. Motorcyclists often adjust position within a lane to be seen more easily and to minimize the effects of road debris, passing vehicles, and wind. Understand that motorcyclists adjust lane position for a purpose, not to be reckless or show off or to allow you to share the lane with them.
8. Maneuverability is one of a motorcycle's better characteristics, especially at slower speeds and with good road conditions, but don't expect a motorcyclist to always be able to dodge out of the way.
9. Stopping distance for motorcycles is nearly the same as for cars, but slippery pavement makes stopping quickly difficult. Allow more following distance behind a motorcycle because it can't always stop "on a dime".
10. When a motorcycle is in motion, don't think of it as a motorcycle; think of it as a person.
Information provided by: Motorcycle Safety Foundation
Every driver knows how to put the key into the ignition and start the car in order to start driving. And every driver knows either how to slide the gearshift into D, or shift the car into first gear to start going. What every driver may not know is that there are several other very vital things that they should have in their car, in the trunk or the glove box, and that they should know the basic ways to use them in order to keep their car in good condition, and keep themselves and other drivers safe.
Jumper CablesThe first item every driver should keep handy is a tire gauge. This is perhaps the most inexpensive and most often overlooked item on the list. Checking the tire pressure is important for both gas mileage and for maintaining a safe amount of air in a car's tires to avoid a potentially very dangerous blowout. Next, every driver should have a set of jumper cables in their trunk, and know how to use them. It is not as simple as hooking them up to the battery's posts and getting going again, if the battery dies. Drivers must know the difference between the positive and negative posts and apply jumper cables properly to recharge the battery and prevent damage.
No matter the season, every driver should keep on hand at least half a bottle of windshield washer fluid. Whether it's winter and the driver is using a lot to de-ice windshields, or if it's just barely raining and the windshield is becoming difficult to see through, washer fluid is vital to safety and good viewing for drivers. In the winter, no driver should be without a can of de-icing spray, the kind of chemical spray on compound that can be applied to a frozen window or windshield to quickly clear it off for safe driving. Too often, drivers either rely on the mechanical defrosting system, which can be slow to heat, or they start driving with windows still opaque with frost and take a chance on harming themselves or others.
Duct tape is an item that is often maligned, but can become a lifesaver in a vehicle. It can be used to make a temporary repair to a hose that has become cracked. Duct tape can be used to secure windshield wipers that have become detached from the based, as long as they have not completely broken. It can also be used to secure minor parts that have become loose to prevent them from falling off a presenting a danger to other drivers. The next thing no driver should be without is a can of WD-40. It can serve many purposes, from de-icing frozen locks, to cleaning corroded battery posts if a car's battery is not dead, just weakened by posts covered in gunk. This little wonder chemical can also remove grease from hands and some clothing, if repairs at the side of the road become necessary.
Lastly, no driver should be without a set of basic hand tools. No mechanics set up is required here, just the basics like several sizes of wrenches and screwdrivers, as well as some strong cutting tools. With these seven items on hand, there should be no roadside emergency any driver can't deal with. These and a fully charged cell phone, just in case these items can't get the car back on the road again.
Five Things Every Driver Should Know about DUI
By Expert Author: Andy Taylor
Driving after drinking alcohol is not illegal. Driving while impaired or intoxicated is illegal. Every driver should know how to protect themselves from a false DUI conviction.
1. Cause to Stop The Police have to have a reason to stop you when you are driving. They mostly decide to stop you based on the way you are driving (doh). The signs they think show a DUI or DWI driver are many.
What they look for is erratic driving like unexplained speed changes, excessive movement within lanes or lane changing without indicating. Parking badly, having the appearance of not knowing where you are etc.
Unfortunately there could be, and often is, a perfectly acceptable reason for any and all of these ""signs"". A good DUI Lawyer can argue this in court for you.
2. Field Sobriey Testing These tests are NO indication of sobriety. In addition the officer who stops you has, in most cases, already decided that you are a DUI or DWI case. They only use these tests to confirm their suspicion.
I would fail these tests stone cold sober, most people would. They are only an indication of your ability to balance or count backwards or whatever.
You don't have to take these tests in most states, there is a free ebook available from the resource link below written by an experienced DUI Lawyer.
3. Blood Testing Blood testing is the most accurate and it is your right to ask for this to be done if you are stopped for DUI or DWI. You can even ask for your own doctor or hospital to do the testing. A DUI Lawyer will tell you what to do.
If you are unable to get your own doctor or hospital, you should ask for a sample of the blood taken so you can get your own, independent testing done.
4. Blood Alcohol Content The Breath Analysis Testing machines are only accurate when they have been regularly tested and aligned and used as directed. Your DUI Lawyer will get the calibration records to check.
Mostly the police do not use them as directed, you will be asked to ""keep blowing, keep blowing"" but that isn't the way they should be used. The air from the bottom of your lungs has a much higher concentration of alcohol then the air from the top or middle.
The Breath Analysis machine is calibrated for the middle concentration not the bottom so asking you to empty your lungs will give a false reading and will get you convicted of DUI or DWI even though you are below the legal limit.
5. Court Time If you are charged with DUI or DWI you will end up in court. Now the deck is really stacked against you if you dont have a good DUI Lawyer with you. If the police officer has rail roaded you, and over 30% of those in court have been, then the court will believe them rather than you 100% of the time.
Unless...you have an experienced DUI lawyer on your side. The cost of losing a DUI or DWI case will run out to $10,000 or more. If the lawyer costs $5,000 and reduces or eliminates the conviction you have reduced your costs and quite possibly got your life back.
tion OK, if you are reading this a bit late and have already been convicted of DUI or DWI what can you do now?
You need to find out how to get your life back on an even keel. you need to find out how to get your drivers license back, how to protect yourself when applying for a new job, how to get auto insurance at a reasonable price etc.
Here are the top 10 tips for drivers.
If you have trouble remembering which side of the car your fuel intake is have a look at the little pump in the fuel gauage. If the nozzle on the pump is on the right, then your fuel intake is on the right.
If you lock your keys in the car just phone home and get somone to press the unlock button on the spare fob against the phone. If your phone is on hands free and close enough to the car your doors will pop open. This should save a long round trip and a long wait for the spare to arrive.
10 Things that every driver should know!
Dipping the clutch as you start the engine means that the starter is not rotating the main gearbox driveshaft. This can help if your battery is low and will avoid causing the car to lurch forward if the last person to use it left it in gear.
Keeping the tire pressures high can save you (depending on your mileage) £100 ($200) per year in lower tire wear and wasted fuel consumption.
Use the airconditioning to warm the car up in winter as this is faster than waiting for the heat from the engine to kick in. Using the aircon in winter will also help to keep the compressor in good condition and prevent it from siezing up.
If you get white car wax on plastic trim you can remove it using a pencil eraser or peanut butter. Spread on and lick it off or just wipe it off, the TorqueCars member who came up with that little jem suggests that you avoid the cruncy peanut butter.
If your car is stuck in mud remember to keep the speed low. The more your wheels spin the deeper you will get stuck. Ride the clutch and try to rock the car backwards and forwards. The rocking motion will usually be enough to get you free unless you have dug right in. If it is bad get one of your car mats and place this on the ground, rubber side up. Using a very slow engine speed and riding the clutch try to rock the car forwards and backwards.
If your brakes fail, use a lower gear and engine braking to slow up the car. The as the speed drops pump the hand brake on and off until you reach a stop. On motorways when you are dealing with faster speeds and may not have the distance required use a barrier and push the nose of the car into the barrier at a shallow angle.
If your engine cuts out and you need to move forward, for example you are on railway crossing use the starter motor. Put the car in gear and turn on the starter motor. If your battery is in good condition there should be just enough to get you out of harms way. (Expect to replace the starter motor though!)
If your clutch goes completely you can change gear if you match the engine/gearbox speed carefully. Moving the gearstick to netural and then slipping it into gear will usually work. The higher the gear the easier this is to pull off without crunching the gearbox. This way, as long as you keep the car moving you should be able to get the car to a garage.
These tips were gleaned from our members - to get more tips and keep up to date use our forum - registration is completely free. If you have a tip to pass on please use the feedback form below or better still - drop us a line in the forum!
AUTOMOBILE LUBRICATION SYSTEM
The lubrication system of an automobile is mostly used for collecting, cleaning, cooling and re circulating oil in the engine of vehicle. The main function an automobile lubrication system is to circulate and deliver oil to all the moving parts of an engine in order to lessen friction between surfaces that comes in contact with each other. The lubrication system of an automobile acts to reduce engine wear caused by the friction of its metal parts, as well as to carry off heat
Automotive Fluids and Greases refer to materials be it a gas, vapor, or liquids used for keeping various parts of automobile in a good working condition while automobile greases are the thickened gels made up of natural, synthetic and semi synthetic substances. The automotive greases are mainly used for lubricating and sealing various parts of a vehicle such as bearings, combustion engines, compressors, piston pumps and gears.
Various types of automotive fluids and greases are:
Brake Fluid
Grease Nipple
Transmission Fluid
Gear Grease
Lube Grease
Power steering Fluid
BRAKE FLUIDS
Brake fluids must have certain characteristics and meet certain quality standards for the braking system to work properly.
Boiling point
Brake fluid is subjected to very high temperatures, especially in the wheel cylinders of drum brakes and disk brake calipers. It must have a high boiling point to avoid vaporizing in the lines. This vaporization is a problem because vapor released in to the lines is compressible and would result in an inability of the hydraulic fluid to transfer braking force. Quality standards refer to a brake fluid's "dry" and "wet" boiling points. Wet boiling point, which is usually much lower, refers to the fluid's boiling point after absorbing a certain amount of moisture. This is several percent, varying from formulation to formulation ; in higher levels the moisture itself can boil separately from the base fluid. Glycol-ether brake fluids are hygroscopic (water loving), which means they absorb moisture from the atmosphere under normal humidity levels. More modern fluids (e.g. silicone-based formulations) can maintain an acceptable boiling point as they absorb moisture over the fluid's service life.
Viscosity
For reliable, consistent brake system operation, brake fluid must maintain a constant viscosity under a wide range of temperatures, including extreme cold. This is especially important in systems with Antilock brakes (ABS), Traction Control, and Stability Control.
Corrosion
Brakes fluids must not corrode the metals used inside components such as calipers, master cylinders, etc. They must also protect against corrosion as moisture enters the system. Additives (corrosion inhibitors) are added to the base fluid to accomplish this.
Compressibility
Brake fluids must maintain low level of compressibility that remains low, even with varying temperatures.
Service and maintenance
Most automotive professionals agree that brake fluid should be flushed, or changed, every 1-2 years.[1] Many manufacturers also require periodic fluid changes to ensure reliability and safety. Once installed, moisture diffuses into the fluid through brake hoses and rubber seals and eventually the fluid will have to be replaced when the water content becomes too high. Electronic testers and test strips are commercially available to measure moisture content. The corrosion inhibitors also degrade over time. New fluid should always be stored in a sealed container to avoid moisture intrusion.
Brake fluid is not considered a "top up" fluid. If it is low, there is usually a problem. Brake fluid level in the master cylinder will drop as the linings (pads or shoes) wear and the calipers or wheel cylinders extend further to compensate. Brake fluid level may also be low because of a leak, which could result in a loss of hydraulic pressure and consequently, a loss of braking ability. As a general rule, brake fluids with different DOT ratings should not be mixed.
Brake fluid can be dangerous as it is toxic and highly flammable. It will also lift or strip paints and other coatings on contact.
Components
===Mineral-based=== (DOT 3,4,5.1)
* Alkyl ester
* Aliphatic amine
* Diethylene glycol
* Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether
* Diethylene glycol monomethyl ether
* Dimethyl dipropylene glycol
* Polyethylene glycol monobutyl ether
* Polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether
* Polyethylene oxide
* Triethylene glycol monobutyl ether
* Triethylene glycol monoethyl ether
* Triethylene glycol monomethyl ether
===Silicone-based=== (DOT 5)
* Di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate
* Dimethyl polysiloxane
* Tributyl phosphate
WHAT IS DOT 3?
DOT 3 is one of several designations of automotive brake fluid, denoting a particular mixture of chemicals imparting specified ranges of boiling point.
In the United States, all brake fluids must meet Standard No. 116; Motor vehicle brake fluids[1]. Under this standard there are three Department of Transportation (DOT) minimal specifications for brake fluid. They are DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1.
DOT 3, like DOT 4 and DOT 5.1, is a polyethylene glycol-based fluid (contrasted with DOT 5, which is silicone-based). Fluids such as DOT 3 are hygroscopic and will absorb water from the atmosphere. This degrades the fluid's performance, and if allowed to accumulate over a period of time, can drastically reduce its boiling point. In a passenger car this is not much of an issue[citation needed], but can be of serious concern in racecars or motorcycles[citation needed].
As of 2006[update], most cars produced in the U.S. use DOT 3 brake fluid.
Boiling points
Minimal boiling points for these specifications are as follows (wet boiling point defined as 3.7% water by volume):
Dry boiling point Wet boiling point
DOT 3 205°C (401°F) 140°C (284°F)
DOT 4 230°C (446°F) 155°C (311°F)
DOT 5 260°C (500°F) 180°C (356°F)
DOT 5.1 270°C (518°F) 191°C (375°F)
DOT 4
DOT 4 is one of several designations of automotive brake fluid, denoting a particular mixture of chemicals imparting specified ranges of boiling point.
In the United States, all brake fluids must meet Standard No. 116; Motor vehicle brake fluids[1]. Under this standard there are three Department of Transportation (DOT) minimal specifications for brake fluid. They are DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1.
DOT 4, like DOT 3 and DOT 5.1, is a polyethylene glycol-based fluid (contrasted with DOT 5 which is silicone-based). Fluids such as DOT 4 are hygroscopic and will absorb water from the atmosphere. This degrades the fluid's performance, and if allowed to accumulate over a period of time, can drastically reduce its boiling point. In a passenger car this is not much of an issue[citation needed], but can be of serious concerns in racecars or motorcycles[citation needed].
One particular brand of DOT 4 brake fluid lists the following ingredients on its MSDS:
Chemical CAS no Percent
Triethylene glycol 000112-27-6 5-25
Tetraethylene glycol 000112-60-7 5-25
Dibutoxy tetraglycol 000112-98-1 10-50
Tetraethylene glycol diethyl ether 004353-28-0 10-50
Propane, 2-methoxy-1-(2-methoxy-1-methylethoxy)- 089399-28-0 10-50
HOW TO CHECK BRAKE FLUID
* Hand Soaps
* Brake Fluids
* Car Manuals
Step1
Find the brake master cylinder. This is usually located under the hood on the driver's side of the car, toward the back of the engine compartment. Imagine where your brake pedal would end up if it went all the way through to the engine. The brake master cylinder is a small (about 6-by-2 inches), rectangular piece of metal with a plastic reservoir and a rubber cap on top, and small metal tubes leading from it.
Step2
Check your manual if you aren't sure that you've found the master cylinder. The rubber cap will usually read "use only DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid from a sealed container."
Step3
Note that on most newer cars the reservoir is translucent and you can see the fluid level without removing the cap. There will be a "full" line, the brake fluid should be at this line.
Step4
In older cars (pre-1980) the brake master cylinder reservoir may be made entirely of metal so that you must take the top off to check the fluid level. The top is held on by a metal clamp, use a screwdriver to pop off the clamp and lift the lid.
Step5
Add brake fluid to the "full" line. Use the correct brake fluid for your car: Check the rubber cap and your owner's manual to find out what grade of brake fluid your car requires. Most cars use DOT (Department of Transportation) 3 or 4. If the reservoir has 2 parts, fill both halves.
TIPS AND WARNINGS
* If the brake master cylinder is empty, the brake pedal will go to the floor. If this is the case, you will have to bleed the brakes in addition to adding fluid: Time to see your mechanic, who will flush and refill the braking system.
* Brake fluid is very toxic. Keep it away from hands and eyes, and avoid spilling it on the ground. Dispose of empty containers carefully. Be especially careful not to spill brake fluid on your car's paint.
* Wash your hands well after handling brake fluid.
* Don't drive a car that has run out of brake fluid until bleeding the brakes.
TRANSMISSION SYSTEM
Automotive basics
The need for a transmission in an automobile is a consequence of the characteristics of the internal combustion engine. Engines typically operate over a range of 600 to about 7000 revolutions per minute (though this varies, and is typically less for diesel engines), while the car's wheels rotate between 0 rpm and around 1800 rpm.
Furthermore, the engine provides its highest torque outputs approximately in the middle of its range, while often the greatest torque is required when the vehicle is moving from rest or traveling slowly. Therefore, a system that transforms the engine's output so that it can supply high torque at low speeds, but also operate at highway speeds with the motor still operating within its limits, is required. Transmissions perform this transformation.
Most transmissions and gears used in automotive and truck applications are contained in a cast iron case, though sometimes aluminium is used for lower weight. There are three shafts: a mainshaft, a countershaft, and an idler shaft.
The mainshaft extends outside the case in both directions: the input shaft towards the engine, and the output shaft towards the rear axle (on rear wheel drive cars- front wheel drives generally have the engine and transmission mounted transversely, the differential being part of the transmission assembly.) The shaft is suspended by the main bearings, and is split towards the input end. At the point of the split, a pilot bearing holds the shafts together. The gears and clutches ride on the mainshaft, the gears being free to turn relative to the mainshaft except when engaged by the clutches.
Types of automobile transmissions include manual, automatic or semi-automatic transmiss
Manual transmission
Manual transmission come in two basic types:
* a simple but rugged sliding-mesh or unsynchronized / non-synchronous system, where straight-cut spur gear sets are spinning freely, and must be synchronized by the operator matching engine revs to road speed, to avoid noisy and damaging "gear clash",
* and the now common constant-mesh gearboxes which can include non-synchronised, or synchronized / synchromesh systems, where diagonal cut helical (and sometimes double-helical) gear sets are constantly "meshed" together, and a dog clutch is used for changing gears. On synchromesh boxes, friction cones or "synchro-rings" are used in addition to the dog clutch.
The former type is commonly found in many forms of racing cars, older heavy-duty trucks, and some agricultural equipment.
Manual transmissions dominate the car market outside of North America. They are cheaper, lighter, usually give better performance, and fuel efficiency (although the latest sophisticated automatic transmissions may yield results slightly better than the ones yielded by manual transmissions). It is customary for new drivers to learn, and be tested, on a car with a manual gear change. In Malaysia, Denmark and Poland all cars used for testing (and because of that, virtually all those used for instruction as well) have a manual transmission. In Japan, the Philippines, Germany, Israel, the Netherlands, Belgium, New Zealand, Austria, the UK [3][4], Ireland[4], Sweden, France, Switzerland, Australia, Finland and Lithuania , a test pass using an automatic car does not entitle the driver to use a manual car on the public road; a test with a manual car is required.[citation needed] Manual transmissions are much more common than automatic transmissions in Asia, Africa, South America and Europe.
Non-synchronous transmissions
There are commercial applications engineered with designs taking into account that the gear shifting will be done by an experienced operator. They are a manual transmission, but are known as non-synchronized transmissions. Dependent on country of operation, many local, regional, and national laws govern the operation of these types of vehicles (see Commercial Driver's License). This class may include commercial, military, agricultural, or engineering vehicles. Some of these may use combinations of types for multi-purpose functions. An example would be a PTO, or power-take-off gear. The non-synchronous transmission type requires an understanding of gear range, torque, engine power, and multi-functional clutch and shifter functions. Also see Double-clutching, and Clutch-brake sections of the main article at non-synchronous transmissions.
Main article: Automatic transmission
Epicyclic gearing or planetary gearing as used in an automatic transmission.
Most modern North American, and many larger, high specification German cars have an automatic transmission that will select an appropriate gear ratio without any operator intervention. They primarily use hydraulics to select gears, depending on pressure exerted by fluid within the transmission assembly. Rather than using a clutch to engage the transmission, a fluid flywheel, or torque converter is placed in between the engine and transmission. It is possible for the driver to control the number of gears in use or select reverse, though precise control of which gear is in use may or may not be possible.
Automatic transmissions are easy to use. In the past, automatic transmissions of this type have had a number of problems; they were complex and expensive, sometimes had reliability problems (which sometimes caused more expenses in repair), have often been less fuel-efficient than their manual counterparts (due to "slippage" in the torque converter), and their shift time was slower than a manual making them uncompetitive for racing. With the advancement of modern automatic transmissions this has changed.[citation needed]
Since their inception, automatic transmissions have been very popular in the United States, and some vehicles are not available with manual gearboxes anymore. In Europe automatic transmissions are gaining popularity as well.[citation needed]
Attempts to improve the fuel efficiency of automatic transmissions include the use of torque converters which lock up beyond a certain speed, or in the higher gear ratios, eliminating power loss, and overdrive gears which automatically actuate above certain speeds; in older transmissions both technologies could sometimes become intrusive, when conditions are such that they repeatedly cut in and out as speed and such load factors as grade or wind vary slightly. Current computerized transmissions possess very complex programming to both maximize fuel efficiency and eliminate any intrusiveness.[citation needed]
For certain applications, the slippage inherent in automatic transmissions can be advantageous; for instance, in drag racing, the automatic transmission allows the car to be stopped with the engine at a high rpm (the "stall speed") to allow for a very quick launch when the brakes are released; in fact, a common modification is to increase the stall speed of the transmission. This is even more advantageous for turbocharged engines, where the turbocharger needs to be kept spinning at high rpm by a large flow of exhaust in order to keep the boost pressure up and eliminate the turbo lag that occurs when the engine is idling and the throttle is suddenly opened.
Semi-automatic transmission
The creation of computer control also allowed for a sort of cross-breed transmission where the car handles manipulation of the clutch automatically, but the driver can still select the gear manually if desired. This is sometimes called a "clutchless manual," "dual-clutch," or "automated manual" transmission. Many of these transmissions allow the driver to give full control to the computer. They are generally designed using manual transmission "internals", and when used in passenger cars, have synchromesh operated helical constant mesh gear sets.
Specific type of this transmission includes: Easytronic, Geartronic, and Direct-Shift Gearbox.
There are also sequential transmissions which use the rotation of a drum to switch gears.
Bicycle gearing
Shimano XT rear derailleur on a mountain bike
Main articles: Bicycle gearing, Derailleur gears, and Hub gear
Bicycles usually have a system for selecting different gear ratios. There are two main types: derailleur gears and hub gears. The derailleur type is the most common, and the most visible, using sprocket gears. Typically there are several gears available on the rear sprocket assembly, attached to the rear wheel. A few more sprockets are usually added to the front assembly as well. Multiplying the number of sprocket gears in front by the number to the rear gives the number of gear ratios, often called "speeds".
Hub gears use epicyclic gearing and are enclosed within the axle of the rear wheel. Because of the small space, they typically offer fewer different speeds, although at least one has reached 14 gear ratios.[5]
Causes for failure of bicycle gearing include: worn teeth, damage caused by a faulty chain, damage due to thermal expansion, broken teeth due to excessive pedaling force, interference by foreign objects, and loss of lubrication due to negligence.
Uncommon types
Main article: Continuously variable transmission
The Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) is a transmission in which the ratio of the rotational speeds of two shafts, as the input shaft and output shaft of a vehicle or other machine, can be varied continuously within a given range, providing an infinite number of possible ratios.
The continuously variable transmission (CVT) should not be confused with the Infinitely Variable Transmission (IVT) (See below).
The other mechanical transmissions described above only allow a few different gear ratios to be selected, but this type of transmission essentially has an infinite number of ratios available within a finite range. The continuously variable transmission allows the relationship between the speed of the engine and the speed of the wheels to be selected within a continuous range. This can provide even better fuel economy if the engine is constantly running at a single speed. The transmission is in theory capable of a better user experience, without the rise and fall in speed of an engine, and the jerk felt when changing gears.
Infinitely variable
The IVT is a specific type of CVT that has an infinite range of input/output ratios in addition to its infinite number of possible ratios; this qualification for the IVT implies that its range of ratios includes a zero output/input ratio that can be continuously approached from a defined 'higher' ratio. A zero output implies an infinite input, which can be continuously approached from a given finite input value with an IVT. [Note: remember that so-called 'low' gears are a reference to low ratios of output/input, which have high input/output ratios that are taken to the extreme with IVT's, resulting in a 'neutral', or non-driving 'low' gear limit.]
Most (if not all) IVT's result from the combination of a CVT with an epicyclic gear system (which is also known as a planetary gear system) that facilitates the subtraction of one speed from another speed within the set of input and planetary gear rotations. This subtraction only needs to result in a continuous range of values that includes a zero output; the maximum output/input ratio can be arbitrarily chosen from infinite practical possibilities through selection of extraneous input or output gear, pulley or sprocket sizes without affecting the zero output or the continuity of the whole system. Importantly, the IVT is distinguished as being 'infinite' in its ratio of high gear to low gear within its range; high gear is infinite times higher than low gear. The IVT is always engaged, even during its zero output adjustment.
The term 'infinitely variable transmission' does not imply reverse direction, disengagement, automatic operation, or any other quality except ratio selectability within a continuous range of input/output ratios from a defined minimum to an undefined, 'infinite' maximum. This means continuous range from a defined output/input to zero output/input ratio.
Electric variable
The Electric Variable Transmission(EVT) is a transmission that achieves CVT action and in addition can use separate power inputs to produce one output. An EVT usually is executed in design with an epicyclic differential gear system (which is also known as a planetary gear system). The epicyclic differential gearing performs a "power-split" function, directly connecting a portion of the mechanical power directly through the transmission and splitting off a portion for subsequent conversion to electrical power via a motor/generator. Hence, the EVT is called a Power Split Transmission (PST) by some.
The directly connected portion of the power travelling through the EVT is referred to as the "mechanical path". The remaining power travels down the EVT's "electrical path". That power may be recombined at the output of the transmission or stored for later, more opportune use via a second motor/generator (and energy storage device) connected to the transmission output.
The pair of motor/generators forms an Electric Transmission in its own right, but at a lower capacity, than the EVT it is contained within. Generally the Electric Transmission capacity within the EVT is a quarter to a half of the capacity of the EVT. Good reasons to use an EVT instead of an equivalently-sized Electrical transmission is that the mechanical path of the EVT is more compact and efficient than the electrical path.
The EVT is the essential method for transmitting power in some hybrid vehicles, enabling an Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) to be used in conjunction with motor/generators for vehicle propulsion, and having the ability to control the portion of the mechanical power used directly for propelling the vehicle and the portion of mechanical power that is converted to electric power and recombined to drive the vehicle.
The EVT and power sources are controlled to provide a balance between the power sources that increases vehicle fuel economy while providing advantageous performance when needed. The EVT may also be used to provide electrically generated power to charge large storage batteries for subsequent electric motor propulsion as needed, or to convert vehicle kinetic energy to electricity through 'regenerative braking' during deceleration. Various configurations of power generation, usage and balance can be implemented with a EVT, enabling great flexibility in propelling hybrid vehicles.
The Toyota single mode hybrid and General Motor 2 Mode hybrid are production systems that use EVTs. The Toyota system is in the Prius, Highlander, and Lexus RX400h and GS450h models. The GM system is the Allison Bus hybrid powertrains and are in the Tahoe and Yukon models. The Toyota system uses one power-split epicyclic differential gearing system over all driving conditions and is sized with an electrical path rated at approximately half the capacity of the EVT. The GM system uses two different EVT ranges: one designed for lower speeds with greater mechnical advantage, and one designed for higher speeds, and the electrical path is rated at approximately a quarter of the capacity of the EVT. Other arrangements are possible and applications of EVT's are growing rapidly in number and variety.
EVT's are capable of continuously modulating output/input speed ratios like mechanical CVT's, but offer the distinct difference and benefit of being able to also apportion power from two different sources to one output.
Hydrostatic
Hydrostatic transmissions transmit all power hydraulically, using the components of hydraulic machinery. There is no solid coupling of the input and output. One half of the transmission is a hydraulic pump and the other half is a hydraulic motor, or hydraulic cylinder. Hydrostatic drive systems are used on excavators, lawn tractors, forklifts, winch drive systems, heavy lift equipment, agricultural machinery, etc.
Hydraulic drive systems can be used as an extra transmission between motor and f.i. wheels.
Hydrodynamic
If the hydraulic pump and/or hydraulic motor are not hydrostatic, but hydrodynamic, then the transmission can be called hydrodynamic. The pump and motor can consist of rotating vanes without seals. The pump and motor can be placed in reasonable proximity. The transmission ratio can be made to vary by means of additional rotating vanes, an effect similar to varying the pitch of an airplane propeller.
The torque converter in most American cars is a hydrodynamic transmission, placed ahead of the automatic transmission.
It was possible to drive the Dynaflow transmission without shifting the mechanical gears.
Hydrodynamic transmissions tend to be inefficient due to energy losses in the fluid.
Electric
Electric transmissions convert the mechanical power of the engine(s) to electricity with electric generators and convert it back to mechanical power with electric motors. Electrical or electronic adjustable-speed drive control systems are used to control the speed and torque of the motors. If the generators are driven by turbines, such arrangements are called turbo-electric. Likewise installations powered by diesel-engines are called diesel-electric. Diesel-electric arrangements are used on many railway locomotives.
Virtual transmission
Virtual Transmission allows for the same traction motor to be both a low-speed high torque and high-speed electric motor, using the winding/software that runs on the new electric motors, . This virtual transmission will require less complex engineering, and less weight [6][7] [8]. The alternator and starter for the Volt can be a single motor instead of two separate motors, that is smaller and lighter than each of the two motors individually [9].
Automotive Fluids and Greases refer to materials be it a gas, vapor, or liquids used for keeping various parts of automobile in a good working condition while automobile greases are the thickened gels made up of natural, synthetic and semi synthetic substances. The automotive greases are mainly used for lubricating and sealing various parts of a vehicle such as bearings, combustion engines, compressors, piston pumps and gears.
Various types of automotive fluids and greases are:
Brake Fluid
Grease Nipple
Transmission Fluid
Gear Grease
Lube Grease
Power steering Fluid
BRAKE FLUIDS
Brake fluids must have certain characteristics and meet certain quality standards for the braking system to work properly.
Boiling point
Brake fluid is subjected to very high temperatures, especially in the wheel cylinders of drum brakes and disk brake calipers. It must have a high boiling point to avoid vaporizing in the lines. This vaporization is a problem because vapor released in to the lines is compressible and would result in an inability of the hydraulic fluid to transfer braking force. Quality standards refer to a brake fluid's "dry" and "wet" boiling points. Wet boiling point, which is usually much lower, refers to the fluid's boiling point after absorbing a certain amount of moisture. This is several percent, varying from formulation to formulation ; in higher levels the moisture itself can boil separately from the base fluid. Glycol-ether brake fluids are hygroscopic (water loving), which means they absorb moisture from the atmosphere under normal humidity levels. More modern fluids (e.g. silicone-based formulations) can maintain an acceptable boiling point as they absorb moisture over the fluid's service life.
Viscosity
For reliable, consistent brake system operation, brake fluid must maintain a constant viscosity under a wide range of temperatures, including extreme cold. This is especially important in systems with Antilock brakes (ABS), Traction Control, and Stability Control.
Corrosion
Brakes fluids must not corrode the metals used inside components such as calipers, master cylinders, etc. They must also protect against corrosion as moisture enters the system. Additives (corrosion inhibitors) are added to the base fluid to accomplish this.
Compressibility
Brake fluids must maintain low level of compressibility that remains low, even with varying temperatures.
Service and maintenance
Most automotive professionals agree that brake fluid should be flushed, or changed, every 1-2 years.[1] Many manufacturers also require periodic fluid changes to ensure reliability and safety. Once installed, moisture diffuses into the fluid through brake hoses and rubber seals and eventually the fluid will have to be replaced when the water content becomes too high. Electronic testers and test strips are commercially available to measure moisture content. The corrosion inhibitors also degrade over time. New fluid should always be stored in a sealed container to avoid moisture intrusion.
Brake fluid is not considered a "top up" fluid. If it is low, there is usually a problem. Brake fluid level in the master cylinder will drop as the linings (pads or shoes) wear and the calipers or wheel cylinders extend further to compensate. Brake fluid level may also be low because of a leak, which could result in a loss of hydraulic pressure and consequently, a loss of braking ability. As a general rule, brake fluids with different DOT ratings should not be mixed.
Brake fluid can be dangerous as it is toxic and highly flammable. It will also lift or strip paints and other coatings on contact.
Components
===Mineral-based=== (DOT 3,4,5.1)
* Alkyl ester
* Aliphatic amine
* Diethylene glycol
* Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether
* Diethylene glycol monomethyl ether
* Dimethyl dipropylene glycol
* Polyethylene glycol monobutyl ether
* Polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether
* Polyethylene oxide
* Triethylene glycol monobutyl ether
* Triethylene glycol monoethyl ether
* Triethylene glycol monomethyl ether
===Silicone-based=== (DOT 5)
* Di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate
* Dimethyl polysiloxane
* Tributyl phosphate
WHAT IS DOT 3?
DOT 3 is one of several designations of automotive brake fluid, denoting a particular mixture of chemicals imparting specified ranges of boiling point.
In the United States, all brake fluids must meet Standard No. 116; Motor vehicle brake fluids[1]. Under this standard there are three Department of Transportation (DOT) minimal specifications for brake fluid. They are DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1.
DOT 3, like DOT 4 and DOT 5.1, is a polyethylene glycol-based fluid (contrasted with DOT 5, which is silicone-based). Fluids such as DOT 3 are hygroscopic and will absorb water from the atmosphere. This degrades the fluid's performance, and if allowed to accumulate over a period of time, can drastically reduce its boiling point. In a passenger car this is not much of an issue[citation needed], but can be of serious concern in racecars or motorcycles[citation needed].
As of 2006[update], most cars produced in the U.S. use DOT 3 brake fluid.
Boiling points
Minimal boiling points for these specifications are as follows (wet boiling point defined as 3.7% water by volume):
Dry boiling point Wet boiling point
DOT 3 205°C (401°F) 140°C (284°F)
DOT 4 230°C (446°F) 155°C (311°F)
DOT 5 260°C (500°F) 180°C (356°F)
DOT 5.1 270°C (518°F) 191°C (375°F)
DOT 4
DOT 4 is one of several designations of automotive brake fluid, denoting a particular mixture of chemicals imparting specified ranges of boiling point.
In the United States, all brake fluids must meet Standard No. 116; Motor vehicle brake fluids[1]. Under this standard there are three Department of Transportation (DOT) minimal specifications for brake fluid. They are DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1.
DOT 4, like DOT 3 and DOT 5.1, is a polyethylene glycol-based fluid (contrasted with DOT 5 which is silicone-based). Fluids such as DOT 4 are hygroscopic and will absorb water from the atmosphere. This degrades the fluid's performance, and if allowed to accumulate over a period of time, can drastically reduce its boiling point. In a passenger car this is not much of an issue[citation needed], but can be of serious concerns in racecars or motorcycles[citation needed].
One particular brand of DOT 4 brake fluid lists the following ingredients on its MSDS:
Chemical CAS no Percent
Triethylene glycol 000112-27-6 5-25
Tetraethylene glycol 000112-60-7 5-25
Dibutoxy tetraglycol 000112-98-1 10-50
Tetraethylene glycol diethyl ether 004353-28-0 10-50
Propane, 2-methoxy-1-(2-methoxy-1-methylethoxy)- 089399-28-0 10-50
HOW TO CHECK BRAKE FLUID
* Hand Soaps
* Brake Fluids
* Car Manuals
Step1
Find the brake master cylinder. This is usually located under the hood on the driver's side of the car, toward the back of the engine compartment. Imagine where your brake pedal would end up if it went all the way through to the engine. The brake master cylinder is a small (about 6-by-2 inches), rectangular piece of metal with a plastic reservoir and a rubber cap on top, and small metal tubes leading from it.
Step2
Check your manual if you aren't sure that you've found the master cylinder. The rubber cap will usually read "use only DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid from a sealed container."
Step3
Note that on most newer cars the reservoir is translucent and you can see the fluid level without removing the cap. There will be a "full" line, the brake fluid should be at this line.
Step4
In older cars (pre-1980) the brake master cylinder reservoir may be made entirely of metal so that you must take the top off to check the fluid level. The top is held on by a metal clamp, use a screwdriver to pop off the clamp and lift the lid.
Step5
Add brake fluid to the "full" line. Use the correct brake fluid for your car: Check the rubber cap and your owner's manual to find out what grade of brake fluid your car requires. Most cars use DOT (Department of Transportation) 3 or 4. If the reservoir has 2 parts, fill both halves.
TIPS AND WARNINGS
* If the brake master cylinder is empty, the brake pedal will go to the floor. If this is the case, you will have to bleed the brakes in addition to adding fluid: Time to see your mechanic, who will flush and refill the braking system.
* Brake fluid is very toxic. Keep it away from hands and eyes, and avoid spilling it on the ground. Dispose of empty containers carefully. Be especially careful not to spill brake fluid on your car's paint.
* Wash your hands well after handling brake fluid.
* Don't drive a car that has run out of brake fluid until bleeding the brakes.
TRANSMISSION SYSTEM
Automotive basics
The need for a transmission in an automobile is a consequence of the characteristics of the internal combustion engine. Engines typically operate over a range of 600 to about 7000 revolutions per minute (though this varies, and is typically less for diesel engines), while the car's wheels rotate between 0 rpm and around 1800 rpm.
Furthermore, the engine provides its highest torque outputs approximately in the middle of its range, while often the greatest torque is required when the vehicle is moving from rest or traveling slowly. Therefore, a system that transforms the engine's output so that it can supply high torque at low speeds, but also operate at highway speeds with the motor still operating within its limits, is required. Transmissions perform this transformation.
Most transmissions and gears used in automotive and truck applications are contained in a cast iron case, though sometimes aluminium is used for lower weight. There are three shafts: a mainshaft, a countershaft, and an idler shaft.
The mainshaft extends outside the case in both directions: the input shaft towards the engine, and the output shaft towards the rear axle (on rear wheel drive cars- front wheel drives generally have the engine and transmission mounted transversely, the differential being part of the transmission assembly.) The shaft is suspended by the main bearings, and is split towards the input end. At the point of the split, a pilot bearing holds the shafts together. The gears and clutches ride on the mainshaft, the gears being free to turn relative to the mainshaft except when engaged by the clutches.
Types of automobile transmissions include manual, automatic or semi-automatic transmiss
Manual transmission
Manual transmission come in two basic types:
* a simple but rugged sliding-mesh or unsynchronized / non-synchronous system, where straight-cut spur gear sets are spinning freely, and must be synchronized by the operator matching engine revs to road speed, to avoid noisy and damaging "gear clash",
* and the now common constant-mesh gearboxes which can include non-synchronised, or synchronized / synchromesh systems, where diagonal cut helical (and sometimes double-helical) gear sets are constantly "meshed" together, and a dog clutch is used for changing gears. On synchromesh boxes, friction cones or "synchro-rings" are used in addition to the dog clutch.
The former type is commonly found in many forms of racing cars, older heavy-duty trucks, and some agricultural equipment.
Manual transmissions dominate the car market outside of North America. They are cheaper, lighter, usually give better performance, and fuel efficiency (although the latest sophisticated automatic transmissions may yield results slightly better than the ones yielded by manual transmissions). It is customary for new drivers to learn, and be tested, on a car with a manual gear change. In Malaysia, Denmark and Poland all cars used for testing (and because of that, virtually all those used for instruction as well) have a manual transmission. In Japan, the Philippines, Germany, Israel, the Netherlands, Belgium, New Zealand, Austria, the UK [3][4], Ireland[4], Sweden, France, Switzerland, Australia, Finland and Lithuania , a test pass using an automatic car does not entitle the driver to use a manual car on the public road; a test with a manual car is required.[citation needed] Manual transmissions are much more common than automatic transmissions in Asia, Africa, South America and Europe.
Non-synchronous transmissions
There are commercial applications engineered with designs taking into account that the gear shifting will be done by an experienced operator. They are a manual transmission, but are known as non-synchronized transmissions. Dependent on country of operation, many local, regional, and national laws govern the operation of these types of vehicles (see Commercial Driver's License). This class may include commercial, military, agricultural, or engineering vehicles. Some of these may use combinations of types for multi-purpose functions. An example would be a PTO, or power-take-off gear. The non-synchronous transmission type requires an understanding of gear range, torque, engine power, and multi-functional clutch and shifter functions. Also see Double-clutching, and Clutch-brake sections of the main article at non-synchronous transmissions.
Main article: Automatic transmission
Epicyclic gearing or planetary gearing as used in an automatic transmission.
Most modern North American, and many larger, high specification German cars have an automatic transmission that will select an appropriate gear ratio without any operator intervention. They primarily use hydraulics to select gears, depending on pressure exerted by fluid within the transmission assembly. Rather than using a clutch to engage the transmission, a fluid flywheel, or torque converter is placed in between the engine and transmission. It is possible for the driver to control the number of gears in use or select reverse, though precise control of which gear is in use may or may not be possible.
Automatic transmissions are easy to use. In the past, automatic transmissions of this type have had a number of problems; they were complex and expensive, sometimes had reliability problems (which sometimes caused more expenses in repair), have often been less fuel-efficient than their manual counterparts (due to "slippage" in the torque converter), and their shift time was slower than a manual making them uncompetitive for racing. With the advancement of modern automatic transmissions this has changed.[citation needed]
Since their inception, automatic transmissions have been very popular in the United States, and some vehicles are not available with manual gearboxes anymore. In Europe automatic transmissions are gaining popularity as well.[citation needed]
Attempts to improve the fuel efficiency of automatic transmissions include the use of torque converters which lock up beyond a certain speed, or in the higher gear ratios, eliminating power loss, and overdrive gears which automatically actuate above certain speeds; in older transmissions both technologies could sometimes become intrusive, when conditions are such that they repeatedly cut in and out as speed and such load factors as grade or wind vary slightly. Current computerized transmissions possess very complex programming to both maximize fuel efficiency and eliminate any intrusiveness.[citation needed]
For certain applications, the slippage inherent in automatic transmissions can be advantageous; for instance, in drag racing, the automatic transmission allows the car to be stopped with the engine at a high rpm (the "stall speed") to allow for a very quick launch when the brakes are released; in fact, a common modification is to increase the stall speed of the transmission. This is even more advantageous for turbocharged engines, where the turbocharger needs to be kept spinning at high rpm by a large flow of exhaust in order to keep the boost pressure up and eliminate the turbo lag that occurs when the engine is idling and the throttle is suddenly opened.
Semi-automatic transmission
The creation of computer control also allowed for a sort of cross-breed transmission where the car handles manipulation of the clutch automatically, but the driver can still select the gear manually if desired. This is sometimes called a "clutchless manual," "dual-clutch," or "automated manual" transmission. Many of these transmissions allow the driver to give full control to the computer. They are generally designed using manual transmission "internals", and when used in passenger cars, have synchromesh operated helical constant mesh gear sets.
Specific type of this transmission includes: Easytronic, Geartronic, and Direct-Shift Gearbox.
There are also sequential transmissions which use the rotation of a drum to switch gears.
Bicycle gearing
Shimano XT rear derailleur on a mountain bike
Main articles: Bicycle gearing, Derailleur gears, and Hub gear
Bicycles usually have a system for selecting different gear ratios. There are two main types: derailleur gears and hub gears. The derailleur type is the most common, and the most visible, using sprocket gears. Typically there are several gears available on the rear sprocket assembly, attached to the rear wheel. A few more sprockets are usually added to the front assembly as well. Multiplying the number of sprocket gears in front by the number to the rear gives the number of gear ratios, often called "speeds".
Hub gears use epicyclic gearing and are enclosed within the axle of the rear wheel. Because of the small space, they typically offer fewer different speeds, although at least one has reached 14 gear ratios.[5]
Causes for failure of bicycle gearing include: worn teeth, damage caused by a faulty chain, damage due to thermal expansion, broken teeth due to excessive pedaling force, interference by foreign objects, and loss of lubrication due to negligence.
Uncommon types
Main article: Continuously variable transmission
The Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) is a transmission in which the ratio of the rotational speeds of two shafts, as the input shaft and output shaft of a vehicle or other machine, can be varied continuously within a given range, providing an infinite number of possible ratios.
The continuously variable transmission (CVT) should not be confused with the Infinitely Variable Transmission (IVT) (See below).
The other mechanical transmissions described above only allow a few different gear ratios to be selected, but this type of transmission essentially has an infinite number of ratios available within a finite range. The continuously variable transmission allows the relationship between the speed of the engine and the speed of the wheels to be selected within a continuous range. This can provide even better fuel economy if the engine is constantly running at a single speed. The transmission is in theory capable of a better user experience, without the rise and fall in speed of an engine, and the jerk felt when changing gears.
Infinitely variable
The IVT is a specific type of CVT that has an infinite range of input/output ratios in addition to its infinite number of possible ratios; this qualification for the IVT implies that its range of ratios includes a zero output/input ratio that can be continuously approached from a defined 'higher' ratio. A zero output implies an infinite input, which can be continuously approached from a given finite input value with an IVT. [Note: remember that so-called 'low' gears are a reference to low ratios of output/input, which have high input/output ratios that are taken to the extreme with IVT's, resulting in a 'neutral', or non-driving 'low' gear limit.]
Most (if not all) IVT's result from the combination of a CVT with an epicyclic gear system (which is also known as a planetary gear system) that facilitates the subtraction of one speed from another speed within the set of input and planetary gear rotations. This subtraction only needs to result in a continuous range of values that includes a zero output; the maximum output/input ratio can be arbitrarily chosen from infinite practical possibilities through selection of extraneous input or output gear, pulley or sprocket sizes without affecting the zero output or the continuity of the whole system. Importantly, the IVT is distinguished as being 'infinite' in its ratio of high gear to low gear within its range; high gear is infinite times higher than low gear. The IVT is always engaged, even during its zero output adjustment.
The term 'infinitely variable transmission' does not imply reverse direction, disengagement, automatic operation, or any other quality except ratio selectability within a continuous range of input/output ratios from a defined minimum to an undefined, 'infinite' maximum. This means continuous range from a defined output/input to zero output/input ratio.
Electric variable
The Electric Variable Transmission(EVT) is a transmission that achieves CVT action and in addition can use separate power inputs to produce one output. An EVT usually is executed in design with an epicyclic differential gear system (which is also known as a planetary gear system). The epicyclic differential gearing performs a "power-split" function, directly connecting a portion of the mechanical power directly through the transmission and splitting off a portion for subsequent conversion to electrical power via a motor/generator. Hence, the EVT is called a Power Split Transmission (PST) by some.
The directly connected portion of the power travelling through the EVT is referred to as the "mechanical path". The remaining power travels down the EVT's "electrical path". That power may be recombined at the output of the transmission or stored for later, more opportune use via a second motor/generator (and energy storage device) connected to the transmission output.
The pair of motor/generators forms an Electric Transmission in its own right, but at a lower capacity, than the EVT it is contained within. Generally the Electric Transmission capacity within the EVT is a quarter to a half of the capacity of the EVT. Good reasons to use an EVT instead of an equivalently-sized Electrical transmission is that the mechanical path of the EVT is more compact and efficient than the electrical path.
The EVT is the essential method for transmitting power in some hybrid vehicles, enabling an Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) to be used in conjunction with motor/generators for vehicle propulsion, and having the ability to control the portion of the mechanical power used directly for propelling the vehicle and the portion of mechanical power that is converted to electric power and recombined to drive the vehicle.
The EVT and power sources are controlled to provide a balance between the power sources that increases vehicle fuel economy while providing advantageous performance when needed. The EVT may also be used to provide electrically generated power to charge large storage batteries for subsequent electric motor propulsion as needed, or to convert vehicle kinetic energy to electricity through 'regenerative braking' during deceleration. Various configurations of power generation, usage and balance can be implemented with a EVT, enabling great flexibility in propelling hybrid vehicles.
The Toyota single mode hybrid and General Motor 2 Mode hybrid are production systems that use EVTs. The Toyota system is in the Prius, Highlander, and Lexus RX400h and GS450h models. The GM system is the Allison Bus hybrid powertrains and are in the Tahoe and Yukon models. The Toyota system uses one power-split epicyclic differential gearing system over all driving conditions and is sized with an electrical path rated at approximately half the capacity of the EVT. The GM system uses two different EVT ranges: one designed for lower speeds with greater mechnical advantage, and one designed for higher speeds, and the electrical path is rated at approximately a quarter of the capacity of the EVT. Other arrangements are possible and applications of EVT's are growing rapidly in number and variety.
EVT's are capable of continuously modulating output/input speed ratios like mechanical CVT's, but offer the distinct difference and benefit of being able to also apportion power from two different sources to one output.
Hydrostatic
Hydrostatic transmissions transmit all power hydraulically, using the components of hydraulic machinery. There is no solid coupling of the input and output. One half of the transmission is a hydraulic pump and the other half is a hydraulic motor, or hydraulic cylinder. Hydrostatic drive systems are used on excavators, lawn tractors, forklifts, winch drive systems, heavy lift equipment, agricultural machinery, etc.
Hydraulic drive systems can be used as an extra transmission between motor and f.i. wheels.
Hydrodynamic
If the hydraulic pump and/or hydraulic motor are not hydrostatic, but hydrodynamic, then the transmission can be called hydrodynamic. The pump and motor can consist of rotating vanes without seals. The pump and motor can be placed in reasonable proximity. The transmission ratio can be made to vary by means of additional rotating vanes, an effect similar to varying the pitch of an airplane propeller.
The torque converter in most American cars is a hydrodynamic transmission, placed ahead of the automatic transmission.
It was possible to drive the Dynaflow transmission without shifting the mechanical gears.
Hydrodynamic transmissions tend to be inefficient due to energy losses in the fluid.
Electric
Electric transmissions convert the mechanical power of the engine(s) to electricity with electric generators and convert it back to mechanical power with electric motors. Electrical or electronic adjustable-speed drive control systems are used to control the speed and torque of the motors. If the generators are driven by turbines, such arrangements are called turbo-electric. Likewise installations powered by diesel-engines are called diesel-electric. Diesel-electric arrangements are used on many railway locomotives.
Virtual transmission
Virtual Transmission allows for the same traction motor to be both a low-speed high torque and high-speed electric motor, using the winding/software that runs on the new electric motors, . This virtual transmission will require less complex engineering, and less weight [6][7] [8]. The alternator and starter for the Volt can be a single motor instead of two separate motors, that is smaller and lighter than each of the two motors individually [9].
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